Domaine du Vissoux - Moulin-à-Vent Les Trois Roches 2009

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

Martine and Pierre-Marie Chermette are gradually handing over the reins to their son, Jean-Étienne Chermette, who wasted no time in introducing some significant changes. In particular, the estate’s name: Domaines Chermette instead of Domaine du Vissoux. That said, the essentials remain the same: 31 hectares of red Beaujolais, 5.5 hectares of white Beaujolais, and 16.5 hectares of crus in Fleurie, Brouilly, and Moulin-à-Vent. The estate, renowned for the richness and roundness of its wines, seems to have adopted a more austere style in recent vintages, perhaps more suited for aging. Nevertheless, the quality remains high, with special mention for the Garants and Les-Trois-Roches from 2016.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the estate:

Jean-Étienne Chermette continues to craft one of the region’s most reliable portfolios at this landmark estate in southern Beaujolais. As I’ve written before, old vines, meticulous yet traditional winemaking, and aging in large oak casks form the foundation of the approach here. The young Chermette, who has simultaneously launched his own label—discussed in this feature—reminded me that the estate obtained Terra Vitis certification in 2018, which is definitely a step in the right direction. The 2021 vintage here, as elsewhere, marks a return to a lighter, more ethereal, and succulent style of Beaujolais than the recent hot, dry vintages have tended to offer, but here, these qualities do not come at the expense of flavor or substance.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the estate:

The estate’s motto, “the art of making wine as close to the grape as possible,” perfectly captures the philosophy of artisan winemaker Pierre-Marie Chermette, who is now joined by Jean-Étienne, one of his sons. He began his career on his parents’ 10 hectares in southern Beaujolais before acquiring 20 hectares in the Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent appellations, and then in Brouilly in 2008. The wines revolve around a core of mature fruit that charms while respecting the identity of the terroirs. A sign of quality, the wines age gracefully even in difficult vintages.

James Suckling