Château Thivin - Côte-de-Brouilly Les Griottes de Brulhié 2023

Château Thivin has embarked on a renovation of its vineyard, with a focus on soil management. As part of its transition to organic farming, trellising on the steepest plots—such as La Chapelle—is now the norm. The lineup is extensive: fruit-forward whites and reds, as well as Côte de Brouilly wines (Sept Vignes, Griottes de Brulhié). The magnificent trio of Godefroy, Chapelle, and Zaccharie particularly impressed and moved us this year. A must-visit for wine lovers and a source of truly great wines.

This historic estate continues to rank among the benchmarks of classic Beaujolais—a wine that ages gracefully—and the 2019 vintage is a fine success here. As I wrote last year, the Geoffrays have banned herbicides and insecticides from their vineyards and are among the most conscientious growers in the appellation, working toward organic certification. In the cellar, winemaking follows traditional methods, with semi-carbonic maceration and aging generally in large oak casks—though some small cuvées see a bit of new oak. A staple at France’s finest restaurants—and on this writer’s table—all readers unfamiliar with these wines are strongly encouraged to seek them out. This year, the Brouilly Reverdon deserves a special mention, as it is particularly well-made.