The shift to organic farming is gaining momentum among Bordeaux estates and grand cru producers

On the French market, organic wine is doing well and is even experiencing strong growth. Consumer demand is on the rise, and in wine-growing regions, many estates have begun the transition to organic farming—if they haven’t already made the switch entirely. But only one region seemed to be holding out: Bordeaux. At least until recently, since in the past few months, several grand cru and famous estates have announced that they have taken steps toward organic, or even biodynamic, viticulture. Among them, we can mention Château Latour which received Ecocert France certification in November 2018, including Château Palmer, Château Angélus, and Château Mangot. And in a few years, the list is expected to grow even longer, if forecasts are to be believed.

An iconic wine region that has been slow to adapt

In France, the Bordeaux wine region is one of the best known and most highly regarded. Divided into several wine-growing subregions, it is home to classified growths that have contributed to its reputation. However, when it comes to converting its vineyards to organic farming, it lags behind other French wine regions. It has taken them longer to change their methods, particularly to reduce the use of chemical herbicides and insecticides. However, in the face of societal pressure and a thriving organic market, an increasing number of them are committing to more ecological, environmentally friendly production. In fact, some are already certified organic. But the region’s lag is not due to the owners’ unwillingness or lack of interest in organic farming. It is largely explained by the climate of the Bordeaux region. Indeed, the climate is humid and has little wind, making it conducive to downy mildew. Yet, with natural treatments, it is more difficult to combat this fungus. However, we can only welcome the recent conversion of prestigious estates, which are setting an example and proving that anyone can make the switch, even if it takes time and requires changes to working methods.

The latest example of going green: Château d’Yquem

A few weeks ago, an announcement made during a dinner left professionals and winegrowers in the Bordeaux region in a state of shock. On May 13, at a press dinner organized by the Council of the 1855 Classified Growths, Bernard Arnault announced Château d’Yquem’s transition to organic farming (which he owns). In this regard, he noted that “in recent years, Yquem has taken decisive steps toward achieving a viticulture that is now fully organic, and will soon be biodynamic.” This information was later confirmed to the Sud-Ouest newspaper by Pierre Lurton, the director of Château d’Yquem. In fact, this organic transition reportedly began several years ago, though no official announcement had been made. Consequently, the use of herbicides and insecticides has long been banned, and the process to obtain official certification is currently underway. Biodynamics will be the next step. This announcement is further proof of the Grand Crus Classés’ commitment to going organic and of a growing ecological awareness in the vineyards.