Domaine Rieflé-Landmann - Lieu-dit Steinstück Riesling 2017

The Rieflés—Jean-Claude and his sons Thomas and Paul—significantly expanded their vineyard when they acquired the plots formerly owned by Seppi Landmann; their vineyards now stretch from Pfaffenheim to Soultzmatt, at the far end of the Noble Valley. They practice viticulture with the utmost care, giving careful consideration to soil conservation, and this has been evident in the wines’ taste for the past few vintages. This is especially true now that Jean-Claude Rieflé has moved away from his experiments with natural wines, which had us more than intrigued a few years ago. Their terroir-driven wines express a gastronomic salinity.

For the Rieflé family, it’s a family tradition: the first winemaker in the family appeared as early as 1830. Today, Thomas tends the vineyards, Paul handles sales, and Jean-Claude, the father, makes the wine. But it’s their daily collaboration that drives the estate forward. The 2011 vintage, marked by the acquisition of the famous Seppi Landmann estate, coincides with the start of a winemaking approach aimed at greater purity: more body and texture, but without excess sugar, and slightly longer aging on fine lees. New labeling also promises greater clarity in the range of wines offered. Finally, note the entry-level wines categorized by style, which may be blends: L’Éclat, a dry wine; L’Aplomb, round and full-bodied; and the aromatic L’Arabesque. L’Étoffe is the red.

Bright straw yellow with green highlights. An enticing nose with notes of fresh flowers and lime. The attack is crisp and fresh, then develops into a richer, denser palate, with lively acidity that truly enhances the wine. The palate reveals stone fruits and mineral flavors, leading to a long, lively, and juicy finish. The calcareous sandstone soils accentuate a lively yet harmonious acidity, giving the wine a very dry character. Steinstück is an exceptional site: it is an extension of one of Alsace’s most remarkable Grands Crus, Zinnkoepflé, producing wines that are slightly more robust than the Grand Cru itself.