Organic wine, natural wine

Strictly speaking, there is no specific certification for organic wine. The term "organic wine" refers to wines produced using viticultural practices or winemaking methods that preserve the environment and carry a specific label. As mentioned, there is not yet any legal certification for organic wine, although one is in the works; however, there are semi-public or private labels whose credibility stems either from their approval by the Ministry of Agriculture, the INAO, or the General Directorate for Competition, Consumer Affairs, and Fraud Control (DGCCRF), or the guarantee of quality and professionalism they inspire. Organic wine therefore does not pertain to a specific production region, nor even an appellation, much less a particular color, but rather to estates, or even individual plots, that meet the specifications set by the certifying body.

1. Wines from organic farming: the AB label

Organic farming has been recognized by French authorities since 1980. Today, the regulations governing this label have been adopted at the European level. The specifications for obtaining the AB label aim to promote a method of agricultural production that preserves soil quality, natural resources, the environment, and the local agricultural workforce. The AB label therefore guarantees that products from this type of agriculture are 95% composed of crops grown without synthetic fertilizers or pesticides (insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, etc.) or Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs). However, regarding wine, the AB label means that the vines were cultivated according to strict organic farming specifications, but does not guarantee the winemaking process. Nevertheless, to promote their products, winemakers often apply the same principles when transforming grapes into wine, particularly by adhering to the Charter of the National Interprofessional Federation of Organic Wines.

2. Wines produced using biodynamic methods

Biodynamic agriculture draws inspiration from the lectures given by Rudolf Steiner in 1924 to German farmers concerned about the declining quality of their crops. Biodynamics shares common ground with organic farming but goes further in the solutions it offers. For instance, only composts of plant or animal origin may be used. Half a dozen preparations are used to combat pests, prevent soil depletion, and promote vine growth. Another distinctive feature of biodynamics is the use of a planting calendar based on lunar, planetary, and zodiacal cycles. In summary, biodynamic agriculture aims not only to make farming sustainable but also to preserve the quality of the grapes. Biodynamics applied to wine goes even further than the AB label in that its principles apply not only to vine cultivation but also to the winemaking process, requiring here as well the exclusion of any additives that are not of natural origin and respect for the rhythms of nature.

3. Sustainable agriculture

Sustainable agriculture is not organic farming in the sense that it does not prohibit the use of synthetic products. However, it can serve as a stepping stone toward the AB label or biodynamic farming. Sustainable agriculture is therefore an official certification awarded to farmers who adopt technical methods and agricultural practices that comply with the requirements of the sustainable agriculture standards. This standard is established by Decree No. 2002-631 of April 25, 2002, and contains over one hundred criteria requiring respect for the environment, control of health risks, occupational health and safety, and animal welfare. This certification is, however, criticized in that some view it merely as a reminder of already mandatory standards or as the minimum baseline for responsible agriculture. Nevertheless, certification of compliance with these standards provides an additional guarantee to consumers, and sustainable agriculture can serve as a motivating step toward a much more stringent certification—and thus a riskier one—for the winegrower.

4. Certificates and certification bodies

The term "organic wine" alone is therefore not enough to inform wine lovers about production or winemaking methods; one must therefore understand what the claimed labels actually mean.

The AB Label, the implications and limitations of which have already been explained, is awarded by independent certification bodies such as ACLAVE, AGROCERT, QUALITE FRANCE S.A., ULASE, SGS ICS, and ECOCERT, which is undoubtedly the best known among them.

Biodynamic farms are eligible for “DEMETER” certification issued by the Demeter Agriculture Organic association. While this is a non-governmental organization, its charter ensures compliance with the principles of biodynamic agriculture.  The “NATURE ET PROGRES” label, which meets the specifications defined by the International Federation of Agriculture and Ecobiology, is currently considered the most rigorous. In fact, in addition to the principles of biodynamics it enforces, this label guarantees environmental responsibility across all areas of the sector’s production: winemaking, social impact, opposition to agricultural intensification, transportation, packaging manufacturing, cork production, etc. These two organizations are independent of AB certification. We can also mention the BIODYVIN label issued by the International Union of Organic Winegrowers, many of whose members do not belong to the DEMETER association. This label is also issued by ECOCERT in accordance with the association’s specific charter.

Finally, sustainable agriculture is certified by independent certifying bodies, some of which may be the same as those that issue the AB label. These organizations are accredited by the National Commission for Sustainable Agriculture. At the initiative of the winemakers concerned, a specific label has been created for sustainable viticulture, applying the principles of the charter to the specificities of vineyard work and winemaking: this is the TERRA VITIS label.