Organic wine, natural wine

Strictly speaking, there is no specific certification for organic wine. The concept of organic wine encompasses wines produced using viticulture or production methods that preserve nature and benefit from a specific label. As mentioned above, there is not yet any legal certification for organic wine, although this is in the pipeline. However, there are semi-public or private labels whose credibility stems either from their approval by the Department of Agriculture, the INAO (National Institute for Origin and Quality) or the Directorate-General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control (DGCCRF), or the guarantee of quality and professionalism they inspire. Organic wine does not therefore refer to a specific region of production, or even an appellation, let alone a particular color, but to estates or even plots of land that meet the specifications imposed by the certifying body.

1. Wines produced using organic farming methods: the AB label

Organic farming has been recognized by the French government since 1980. Today, regulations concerning this label have been adopted at the European level. The specifications for obtaining the AB label aim to impose a method of agricultural production that preserves soil quality, natural resources, the environment, and the local maintenance of agricultural professions. The AB label therefore guarantees that products from this type of agriculture are 95% composed of crops that do not use synthetic fertilizers or plant protection products (insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, etc.) or Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs). However, when it comes to wine, the AB label means that the vines have been cultivated according to strict organic farming specifications, but does not guarantee the winemaking process. Nevertheless, in order to promote their production, winegrowers often apply the same principles when transforming grapes into wine, in particular by adhering to the Charter of the National Interprofessional Federation of Organic Agriculture Wines.

2. Wines produced using biodynamic methods

Biodynamic agriculture is inspired by lectures given by Rudolph Steiner in 1924 to German farmers concerned about the decline in the quality of their crops. Biodynamics has similarities with organic farming, but goes further in the solutions it provides. For example, only compost of plant or animal origin may be used. Half a dozen preparations are used to combat pests, prevent soil depletion, and promote vine growth. Biodynamics also involves planning the crop calendar according to lunar, planetary, and zodiacal cycles. In short, biodynamic agriculture aims not only to make farming sustainable, but also to preserve the qualities of the grapes. Biodynamics applied to wine also goes further than the AB label in that its principles apply both to the cultivation of the vines and to the winemaking process, again requiring the exclusion of any additives that are not of natural origin and respect for the rhythms of nature.

3. Sustainable agriculture

Sustainable agriculture is not organic agriculture in the sense that it does not prohibit the use of synthetic products. However, it can be a step towards AB certification or biodynamics. Sustainable agriculture is therefore an official certificate issued to farmers who adopt technical methods and agricultural practices that comply with the requirements of the sustainable agriculture standard. These standards were established by Decree No. 2002-631 of April 25, 2002, and contain more than 100 selective criteria requiring respect for the environment, control of health risks, occupational health and safety, and animal welfare. However, this certification has been criticized by some as merely a reminder of standards that are already mandatory or as the minimum basis for responsible agriculture. Nevertheless, certification of compliance with standards provides an additional guarantee to consumers, and sustainable agriculture can be seen as a motivating step towards a much more restrictive and therefore risky certification for winegrowers.

4. Certificates and certifying bodies

The concept of organic wine alone is therefore not enough to inform wine lovers about production or winemaking methods, and it is therefore necessary to understand what the various labels actually mean.

The AB label, whose implications and limitations have already been explained, is awarded by independent certifiers such as ACLAVE, AGROCERT, QUALITE FRANCE S.A., ULASE, SGS ICS, and ECOCERT, which is undoubtedly the best known of these.

Biodynamic farms can apply for "DEMETER" certification issued by the Demeter Organic Agriculture Association. This is a non-official body, but its charter guarantees compliance with the principles of biodynamic agriculture.  The "NATURE ET PROGRÈS" label, which meets the specifications defined by the International Federation of Organic Agriculture and Ecobiology, is currently considered the most rigorous. In addition to the principles of biodynamics that it imposes, this label guarantees respect for the environment in all areas of production in the sector: winemaking, social environment, the fight against agricultural intensification, transport, the manufacture of packaging, corks, etc. These two organizations are independent of AB certification. We can also mention the BIODYVIN label issued by the International Union of Organic Winegrowers, many of whose members do not belong to the DEMETER association. This label is also issued by ECOCERT according to the association's specific charter.

Finally, sustainable agriculture is certified by independent certifiers, some of whom may also issue the AB label. These organizations are approved by the National Commission for Sustainable Agriculture. At the initiative of the winegrowers concerned, a specific label has been created for sustainable viticulture, applying the principles of the charter to the specific characteristics of vineyard work and wine production: this is the TERRA VITIS label.