Terres Dorées - Morgon 2022

Based in the small village of Charnay, Jean-Paul Brun is renowned throughout the wine region for his magnificent white wines, which almost make us forget his delicious Beaujolais—such as the Buissy, whose bouquet should serve as a benchmark for all Beaujolais producers. Cultivating 48 hectares across six different crus, Jean-Paul Brun has proven year after year—for nearly 30 years now—that he is a master winemaker! In a Burgundian style, where Gamay takes on the character of Pinot (or, if you prefer, where Pinot “Gamay-izes”), he delicately refines the aromas and flavors—sometimes in oak—without ever seeking power. The 2017 vintage, more substantial than 2016, is a success for Jean-Paul Brun, particularly the luminous whites and a Buissy-l’Ancien that is, as always, exceptional.

 

From the sun-drenched region of the Pierres Dorées, Jean-Paul Brun—one of the pioneers of the Beaujolais revival—has brought renown to his region, from primeur wines to the renowned crus he has patiently acquired through his work with the southern Beaujolais wines. Here, the identity of the terroirs is as strong as the drinkability of the wines, in which the winemaker’s velvety touch is evident. This proves that it is possible to produce wines in large volumes that are also of high quality. Whether white, red, or sparkling, connoisseurs are almost always in for a treat, thanks to the wines’ consistency and the winemaker’s personal, flavorful interpretation of the terroirs. He was recently joined by Tristan Larsen to assist him.

The 2022 Morgon Terres Dorées, typically the last to be harvested by Brun, is somewhat reserved at first, then opens up to reveal aromas of blackberry, India ink, and crushed violet—quite intense, like Brun’s other cuvées. On the palate, it is medium-bodied and well-structured, with silky tannins. It’s a Morgon that fills the mouth, though it lacks a bit of tension on the finish. I appreciate the peppery aftertaste.