Champagne Louis Roederer - Brut Cristal 2016 avec étui

Founded in Reims in 1776, Roederer is still owned by the same family, represented today by Frédéric Rouzaud. In recent years, the estate has been a pioneer, being the first to gradually convert its vast 242-hectare vineyard to organic and biodynamic farming (126 hectares). Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, an eminent cellar master and agronomist, never ceases to impress with his intimate knowledge of every plot on the estate and the decisions he makes. “Cristal,” an exceptional prestige cuvée, comes exclusively from vines growing on chalky soils. The vintage wines and the core of the non-vintage brut—now called “Collection,” with a number indicating the base year of the blend—come from soils that are still calcareous but more clay-rich. The wines intended for the longest aging do not undergo malolactic fermentation, which requires harvesting the grapes at a high level of ripeness, often close to 11°. The current wines are certainly the most remarkable ever produced, including the astonishing red and white Coteaux-Champenois, along with the highly exclusive Camille cuvées.

The 2016 Cristal marks a return to purity and classicism for this vintage, even when taking into account the maturity and generosity of early 2016. It displays its characteristic restraint in its youth, concealing its maturity beneath a long, chalky, and stony energy. Sweet mandarin, pale apricot, and raspberry are interwoven with notes of floral honey that ripen slowly and a tight, smoky charm. An ethereal, fluid delicacy and persistence elevate this cuvée above some of the other expressions from this vintage. This is an extremely promising Cristal, likely to rise to the same level as the highly sought-after 2012 and 2013 vintages.

A house founded in Reims in 1776. Louis Roederer became its owner in 1833, expanded the business, and acquired vineyards. In the 1870s, the house—which produced 2.5 million bottles—had Russia as its main client; there, Tsar Alexander II asked Louis Roederer to create a prestigious champagne for him: the famous Cristal cuvée was launched in 1876. With a vineyard of 240 hectares (comprising Premier Cru and Grand Cru plots) accounting for two-thirds of its supply, the company is still run by the founders’ descendants. The most recent, Frédéric Rouzaud, now heads a group that owns Deutz Champagnes and numerous prestigious wines, from the Médoc to Provence, and from Portugal to California.

The best vintage since 2013, the 2016 Cristal has proven to be magnificent. A vintage that Lecaillon describes as “difficult in the vineyards but magnificent in the cellar,” it had suffered slightly in terms of reputation due to the gloomy atmosphere that prevailed during the challenging growing season, but its results are in fact impressive. The fifth vintage produced entirely from certified organic grapes, with a strong emphasis on Pinot Noir, the 2016 embodies the contemporary quality of Cristal, combining the concentration of the 2002 with the precision and clarity of the 2013. Disgorged in July 2024 with a dosage of seven grams per liter, it opens up in the glass to reveal a bouquet of lemon zest, white flowers, and blanched almonds, framed by a youthful reduction. On the palate, it is lively and electric, with a core of pure fruit, precise effervescence, and a textured attack, ending with a long, briny finish.

The 2016 vintage stands out as a tremendous success, perfectly capturing all the nobility of this vintage, which is highly prized by discerning connoisseurs. Cristal 2016 is poised for a great future: a magnificent, well-rounded wine that is both mature and fresh, in true Champagne style.

Here is one of Champagne’s finest examples. This family-owned estate is built on a vineyard comprising 420 plots, predominantly planted with Pinot Noir, 70% of which are classified as Grand Cru. Viticulture is a true priority here, particularly through the transition to biodynamic farming. Soil management practices are becoming widespread. Only a vineyard as exceptional as this can account for the unique level of harmony and concentration found in such large volumes. It is no coincidence that the cellar master, Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, is not only an oenologist but also an agronomist—just like Jean-Claude Rouzaud, who built the current empire of Roederer’s great international vineyards. In a wise move, he entrusted the reins of the group early on to his son, Frédéric Rouzaud, the current president. Here, malolactic fermentation is only partial and varies (between 25% and 50%). The wines are aged on their lees in tanks and oak casks to give them body.

Typically light, the young Cristal always seems so unassuming on the nose. Young fruit with a hint of vegetal and leafy notes. The finish seems a bit more promising, and it’s a safe bet—based on older vintages—that it will improve with age. But at this stage, it still has a long way to go.

It features wonderfully pure fruity aromas, such as peach, Asian pear, and Golden Delicious apple, accompanied by notes of lemon cream, gingerbread, chalk, and jasmine. Sea salt and oyster shells unfold on the palate, which is so harmonious that the ultra-fine bubbles are barely noticeable. It is both concentrated and smooth, with impressive balance and integration of all its components. The finish is very long, salty, and creamy. Fantastic! 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay. Ready to drink or for aging.

The 2016 Cristal Champagne is crystal-clear and complex, with lovely aromas of fresh flowers. Moderately full-bodied and finely crafted, with a lovely texture, well-defined minerality, and delicate notes of shortbread, it is a sparkling, electric wine with fantastic nuances. It has a concentrated, chalky profile with notes of crushed stone. It will require a bit of patience, but it is a fantastic wine for Cristal in this vintage. Bravo.