Champagne Pol Roger - Brut Rosé 2012

With a cherry hue, the blood-orange color on the skin and pulp reveals concentrated red fruit flavors. The budding aromas display perfect vegetal notes, and the blackcurrant is now ripe for picking. The strawberry and raspberry flavors are bursting with their characteristic fruitiness; the palate exudes the tartness of a clementine and fresh sap with subtle tannins, while the grains of salt that color the finish hold their ground with fascinating persistence. The finish lingers with immense grace.

This medium-sized house, founded in 1849 by Pol Roger, is still owned by the founding family and is currently led by Laurent d’Harcourt. As the official supplier to the Queen of England, its connection with the neighboring kingdom goes far beyond mere commercial ties, as Sir Winston Churchill also appreciated Pol Roger’s wines and made them his favorite brand. It flourished over the past century thanks to exceptional vintages that are indisputably among the elite of champagnes, such as the 1928, which has achieved cult status. The house is fortunate to own a 90-hectare vineyard that covers 65% of its needs; it has deliberately limited its production to 1.5 million bottles annually and maintains an impressive stock of 9 million bottles aging in its cellars—a reserve virtually unmatched today.

This Épernay-based champagne house shipped its first bottles to England as soon as it was founded by the young Pol Roger in 1849. It quickly became famous throughout the kingdom and forged close ties with British champagne enthusiasts; Winston Churchill, in particular, never failed to express his preference for Pol Roger champagne. The business, which has remained family-owned, is supported by a 92-hectare vineyard. On the board of directors, Hubert de Billy represents the fifth generation of the family; Laurent d’Harcourt, chairman of the board, succeeded Patrice Noyelle in 2013. Upon his retirement in 2018, cellar master Dominique Petit handed over his position to Damien Cambres, former director of the Goutte d’Or cooperative in Vertus.

A favorite of Sir Winston Churchill, Pol Roger was founded in 1849. Its approximately 89 hectares of estate-owned vineyards are spread across the terroirs of the Marne Valley, the Montagne de Reims, and the Côte des Blancs. Initially characterized by Pinot Noir, the wines now draw more on the elegance of Chardonnay. With a stock of 8 million bottles currently aging—equivalent to 4 to 5 years of sales—Pol Roger ranks among “the smallest” of the great Champagne houses! Its management remains strictly family-run.

I remembered how rather reserved the 2012 Pol Roger Brut Rosé had seemed when I tasted it again in August to check how it had evolved. A few months have made all the difference, and the wine is already more expressive, wafting from the glass with a lovely bouquet of plums, red berries, blood orange, and toasted brioche. On the palate, it is full-bodied, robust, and vinous, with tremendous depth and structure; its ripe yet racy acidity is balanced by considerable texture and concentration. Although it is still young, I tend to think I was being very conservative about its ultimate potential.

Pol Roger is a true icon of Champagne, renowned for the precision, richness, and consistency of its portfolio. The vineyards are located primarily on the slopes of Épernay, in the Côte des Blancs, as well as in Mareuil and Ambonnay—all terroirs known for their high quality and consistency. The three grape varieties are blended in equal thirds, as in the house’s purchases (a balance reflected in the cuvées); malolactic fermentation is carried out systematically (which adds roundness); and racking is done at cold temperatures (to enhance aromatic intensity). Pol Roger is the last house of its size to manually riddled its 1.6 million bottles annually on racking racks in its 7.5 km of cellars in Spaarnac. The cuvées are distinguished by the aging of the reserve wines, as well as by the origin of the crus. Pol Roger has recaptured the style and richness of the wines that made it famous in the 1960s, with cuvées such as Sir Winston Churchill (only ten vintages produced in thirty years) or the vintage Blanc de Blancs, the epitome of distinguished champagnes that age remarkably well. Damien Cambres has succeeded Dominique Petit as cellar master.