Domaine Brusset - Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail 2022

Laurent, André’s grandson, who now runs the estate, produces a wide range of wines from nearly 70 plots, including terraced vineyards in the spectacular Dentelles de Montmirail. This fragmentation proves to be an advantage during the blending process. It’s worth noting that the 2017 vintage was somewhat turbulent.

Seventy-eight south-facing terraces make up this 70-hectare vineyard located at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail. Founded in 1947 by André Brusset, then managed by his son Daniel, it is now run by his grandson Laurent. The estate produces wines across 5 AOCs and offers a total of 14 different cuvées. A sure bet for Gigondas and Cairanne.

Laurent Brusset’s estate now spans 70 hectares, based in the village of Cairanne but extending to the Ventoux and into the Dentelles above Gigondas. Founded by his grandfather in 1947, winemaking here is modern yet balanced, with a mix of tanks, demi-muids, and barrels used, depending on the cuvée. Similarly, some wines are made entirely from destemmed grapes or entirely from whole clusters, while a blend of both is used for others. “When you have high ripeness,” explained Brusset, “it’s better to keep the stems.” In his entry-level wines, Brusset aims for drinkability, but in his top cuvées, he seeks complexity and aging potential. “2016 is a very fine vintage,” said Brusset. “It has good balance and high acidity.” In 2017, the alcohol content was about half a degree higher and the acidity lower. His yields in Cairanne averaged just 20 hectoliters per hectare—the lowest he’s ever seen. So he adjusted his extraction accordingly, doing no punch-downs and only very gentle pumping over, to avoid extracting harsh tannins.

A fan of full-bodied wines, he opted for an infusion-style winemaking approach. Located in Cairanne, the Brusset estate cultivates 70 hectares of vineyards across five appellations. For many years, Laurent Brusset produced full-bodied wines, seeking density through aggressive extraction during winemaking. Today, he focuses more on infusion to produce more refined wines. His transition to organic farming over the past two years has required considerable manual labor on the steep slopes he cultivates, which are difficult to mechanize. But for him, the crucial factor remains the optimal ripeness of the grapes at harvest. It’s no surprise, then, that we were captivated by his beautiful wines, bursting with generous fruit.

Tasted blind. Notes of fruity candy on the nose. On the palate, firm, linear tannins with subtle notes of fruitcake, menthol, eucalyptus, and tobacco. Very young and full of potential. A fresh, refreshing note on the long finish.

A blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 20% Mourvèdre, the 2022 Gigondas Les Hauts De Montmirail is grown on high-altitude terraces with limestone soils. Aromas of dark berries, leather, graphite, camphor, violets, and numerous notes of spring flowers define the bouquet, and the palate is medium-bodied to full-bodied, with a tight, concentrated, and incredibly pure style. It shines with its incredible purity and elegance and should gain a bit of body and richness with 3 to 5 years of cellaring.