Villa Ponciago - Fleurie La Réserve 2012

Château de Poncié (Ponciago in Latin) is a historic estate in the Fleurie appellation. Acquired in 2008 by the Henriot family (Champagnes Henriot, Bouchard Père et Fils, William Fèvre) after decades of poor viticultural practices, the task of revitalizing the soil across nearly 60 hectares of vineyards—all located around the château in the northern part of the appellation—is a monumental undertaking. Frédéric Weber and his teams are working diligently on this, with results that are improving year after year.

Villa Ponciago is believed to be the estate’s first known name, as mentioned in the charter of Cluny Abbey. The 19 hectares cultivated within the Fleurie appellation, spread across more than 200 plots, were taken over in 2008 by the Henriot family from Champagne, and the first vintage to be bottled was 2009—prior to that, the wines were sold in bulk. Beyond low yields and the pursuit of ripeness, Thomas Henriot demonstrates his quest for finesse and elegance, notably through measured punching down and long fermentations.

The 2012 Fleurie La Réserve is aged 20 to 30 percent in oak. It offers distinct red currant aromas on the nose, though it’s still a bit reserved at the moment. The palate is well-defined and very juicy for this vintage. An easy-drinking delight, ready to enjoy now and through 2016.

 

It benefits from the inclusion of all the unproduced vintages from that year. The body is complemented by a delicate mineral texture characteristic of the terroir; it is fruity and rich, well-crafted, and a pleasure to drink. Its elegance is a fine achievement for the year.

This historic Fleurie estate, located in the northern part of the appellation, was taken over in 2008 by the Henriot family, who continue to provide it with the care and improvements it deserves. It is undeniably blessed with a beautiful 49-hectare vineyard, a large portion of which is situated on hillsides with steep slopes reaching up to 60 percent. The Hauts du Py parcel is one of the highest points in the appellation (410 m). Three cuvées are produced: La Réserve (made from a selection of the estate’s best plots), Les Hauts du Py (high-altitude terroir), and La Roche Muriers (slopes). Recent vintages demonstrate the progress made and reflect the estate’s ambition. The 2012 vintage places it at the top and justifies the awarding of a well-deserved first star.