Château Cheval Blanc Saint-Emilion 2025 (Primeurs)

With its apple trees growing among the vines, along with chickens, sheep, and a few pigs, Cheval Blanc embraces a sustainable approach to agriculture. These are all assets for the 39 hectares of this legendary estate, which occupies a prime location on the appellation’s sandy-gravel plateau—slightly clayier on its northern slope, toward Pomerol. Cheval Blanc stands out from its neighbors thanks to its legendary longevity, which stems from the high percentage of Cabernet Franc. Pierre Lurton, its director since 1991 (he also serves as president of Château d’Yquem), and his talented teams demonstrate both rigor and ingenuity in perpetuating its inimitable style. The 2018, 2019, and 2020 vintages are superb.

Originally a simple farmstead in Figeac, Cheval Blanc became an independent estate in 1832 when Jean-Jacques Ducasse, president of the Libourne court, purchased it and had the current château built. His descendants undertook major improvements, particularly drainage work, and by the end of the Second Empire, the estate had reached its current size (37 ha) and was ranked among the most renowned in Saint-Émilion. Its Pomerol-style terroir—featuring ancient gravel and sand over clay—explains the uniqueness of its vineyard composition, dominated by Cabernet Franc and complemented by Merlot. The descendants of President Ducasse remained at the helm of the estate until its acquisition in 1998 by Bernard Arnault (LVMH) and Albert Frère. They appointed Pierre Lurton as general manager and provided the château with a new wine cellar, designed by Christian de Portzamparc.

A blend of 51% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2025 Château Cheval Blanc once again stands out as one of the greatest wines of the vintage in Bordeaux. Releasing a deep bouquet of black berries and cherries intertwined with notes of blood orange and iris from the glass, it is full-bodied, complex, and concentrated, with remarkable density on the mid-palate, soft tannins, and a long, vibrant finish with hints of violet. With its striking aromas, intense flavor profile, and decidedly classic proportions (12.7% alcohol and a pH of 3.76), the 2025 has everything it takes to become one of the great Cheval Blancs of the decade.

 

Against a backdrop of intensified competition among the First Growths, and following a period of neglect (through 2005), the return of the estate owned by businessmen Albert Frère and Bernard Arnaud to the Saint-Émilion elite has been nothing short of spectacular. A new chapter is unfolding on this exceptional sandy-gravel terroir on the edge of Pomerol, with a vineyard that relies heavily on Cabernet Franc—including 8 hectares planted in 1956—which lends the great wine a unique freshness and depth of flavor. Since 2011, winemaking has taken place in the new, airy winery designed by architect Christian de Portzamparc. A tall, vast, luminous, minimalist, and eco-friendly structure. Fifty-five custom-made ivory-colored cement tanks, reinforced and contoured. It is the “beautiful and useful” facility that Captain-Director Pierre Lurton and Technical Director Pierre-Olivier Clouet had dreamed of. This spectacular yet unostentatious investment follows a vigorous overhaul of viticultural practices since 2008. With its confirmation as a Premier Grand Cru Classé A in the 2012 classification, the estate’s land base has expanded. For the first time, 1.40 hectares—derived from the annexation of Château Tour du Pin (a clay hill directly extending from the château’s driveway)—have been incorporated into the production of the grand vin. Though never the most powerful, Cheval Blanc nevertheless proves capable of offering rare elegance and refinement. These characteristics are evident in the last five vintages and justify Cheval Blanc’s return last year to the exclusive ranks of the three-star wines.

Cheval Blanc had a very low yield in 2025 at 15 hl/ha, the lowest in the estate’s history. There was extensive sorting, and the vines on gravelly soils suffered greatly. The quality is excellent, but the quantity falls short. The bouquet is characterized by freshness and finesse. It reveals nuances of black berries (blueberries, blackcurrants) and licorice, followed by hints of peonies, mint, and cocoa beans. Smooth from the first sip, the wine is carried by creamy tannins (which become velvety after 30 minutes of aeration) and is therefore perfectly integrated. These tannins offer power and character, working in harmony with the wine’s acid structure. A linear wine driven by an incisive structure and the resulting freshness. The power is well-contained, right through to the finish, where it gives way to the aromatics that energize the aftertaste and the length. A dense and cohesive wine characterized by a low yield, an alcohol content of 12.7%, and thus finesse—and ultimately by an extraordinary power that gives it the substance needed to age gracefully for decades to come. You’ll need to be patient; that’s part of what wine is all about! 2033–2065