Domaine Long-Depaquit - Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaucopins 2008

Cécilia Trimaille has just settled in Chablis, where she is taking over from Matthieu Mangenot as head of the Long-Depaquit estate, the Bichot family’s Chablis operation since 1970. The vineyard there is one of the most comprehensive in the region, spanning 65 hectares, including 5 of the appellation’s 7 grands crus (not counting the famous Moutonne monopole); a tasting here offers a wonderful glimpse into the diversity of the area’s terroirs. The 2017 vintage was good despite the spring frost, which affected yields more than quality. With the exception of the disappointing Les-Lys Premier Cru, all the other vintages tasted excellent.

A well-known name in Beaune, Albert Bichot owns the Long-Depaquit estate in Chablis, which encompasses a prestigious selection of crus, including the La Moutonne grand cru—which he holds as a monopoly—and which enjoys the sunniest exposure in the appellation. The wines often exhibit a roundness and fullness that make them enjoyable even when young. While the range may seem more consistent, the expression of the terroirs could certainly gain in intensity and precision. Cécilia Trimaille, 31, the new estate manager, will strive to support this progress.