Champagne Louis Roederer - Brut Cristal 2018 avec étui

Founded in Reims in 1776, Roederer is still owned by the same family, represented today by Frédéric Rouzaud. In recent years, the estate has been a pioneer, being the first to gradually convert its vast 242-hectare vineyard to organic and biodynamic farming (126 hectares). Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, an eminent cellar master and agronomist, never ceases to impress with his intimate knowledge of every plot on the estate and the decisions he makes. “Cristal,” an exceptional prestige cuvée, comes exclusively from vines growing on chalky soils. The vintage wines and the core of the non-vintage brut—now called “Collection,” with a number indicating the base year of the blend—come from soils that are still calcareous but more clay-rich. The wines intended for the longest aging do not undergo malolactic fermentation, which requires harvesting the grapes at a high level of ripeness, often close to 11°. The current wines are certainly the most remarkable ever produced, including the astonishing red and white Coteaux-Champenois, along with the highly exclusive Camille cuvées.

This sunny, ripe, and generous vintage of Cristal prompted Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon of Roederer to seek greater concentration and purity in the selected plots; the resulting wine thus incorporates additional plots of Chardonnay from Avize and Pinot Noir from Verzy that are not typically used. Thanks to organic and biodynamic viticulture—and relatively low yields for the year—this Cristal retains the welcoming and generous texture characteristic of the 2018 vintage, but above all, it offers an extraordinary degree of finesse, energy, and depth. Soft notes of raspberry, apricot, and white nectarine are balanced by an alluring complexity of slightly smoky white pepper and a salty, chalky hint on the finish that enlivens this brilliant, fluid Cristal cuvée. Its aging potential is assured, but this is also a brilliant Cristal best enjoyed younger than vintages such as 2016, 2014, or 2013. 30% fermented in oak barrels, with a dosage of 7 g/L.

A house founded in Reims in 1776. Louis Roederer became its owner in 1833, expanded the business, and acquired vineyards. In the 1870s, the house—which produced 2.5 million bottles—had Russia as its main client, where Tsar Alexander II asked Louis Roederer to create a prestigious champagne for him: the famous Cristal cuvée was launched in 1876. With a vineyard of 240 hectares (comprising Premier Cru and Grand Cru plots) accounting for two-thirds of its supply, the company is still run by the founders’ descendants. The most recent, Frédéric Rouzaud, now heads a group that owns Deutz Champagnes and numerous prestigious wines, from the Médoc to Provence, and from Portugal to California.

The nose is precise, with lovely depth; the profile is quite open due to the vintage’s maturity, and the overall aroma is just beginning to unfold. The wine is full-bodied and well-structured: a wine that displays its power, yet with remarkable tension—a full-bodied wine that still needs time to come together.

Here is one of Champagne’s finest examples. This family-owned estate is built on a vineyard comprising 420 plots, predominantly planted with Pinot Noir, 70% of which are classified as Grand Cru. Viticulture is a true priority here, particularly through the transition to biodynamic farming. Soil management practices are becoming widespread. Only a vineyard as exceptional as this can account for the unique level of harmony and concentration found in such large volumes. It is no coincidence that the cellar master, Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, is not only an oenologist but also an agronomist—just like Jean-Claude Rouzaud, who built the current empire of Roederer’s great international vineyards. In a wise move, he entrusted the reins of the group early on to his son, Frédéric Rouzaud, the current president. Here, malolactic fermentation is only partial and varies (between 25% and 50%). The wines are aged on their lees in tanks and oak casks to give them body.

A well-balanced wine that combines density, length, and a firm backbone of lively acidity. Although its structure is solid, it conveys a sense of finesse. The lively, delicate mousse, with its textured, jagged quality, envelops the fine structure, revealing aromas of blackcurrant, lemon cream, chalky minerality, and biscuit. The finish is long and fragrant, with notes of fruit, toast, minerality, and spices. Harmonious and enjoyable now, this wine will age well in the cellar—potentially longer than some of its counterparts from the same vintage. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2048.

The 2018 Cristal marks the beginning of a new chapter for Roederer. The Cristal estate consists of 45 plots. In the best vintages, most of these 45 plots are used in the blend. The 2018 vintage was characterized by high ripeness and generally low acidity. Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, the long-time cellar master, had to broaden his search to find plots that would add a touch of freshness. He thus expanded his selection to 57 plots. The result is a Cristal unlike any I have ever tasted. Orchard fruits, dried flowers, spices, chalk, and herbs are among the many notes that emerge in the glass. The floral and salty nuances are quite distinctive. Lécaillon reduced oak barrel fermentation, racked the wine very quickly after fermentation, and used all his best Chardonnay lots for the Cristal—to such an extent that there is no Blanc de Blancs. He bottled earlier than usual and chose a crown cap with a liner that allows for less oxygen transfer than is standard here. Overall, these choices have paid off handsomely. On the palate, the 2018 is simply breathtaking. Its linear energy and brilliance are somewhat reminiscent of the 2014, but its flavor profile is completely different from any Cristal I’ve ever tasted. The dosage is 7 grams per liter.

A very well-structured Cristal with aromas of white pepper, bread dough, pie crust, pear tart, and a hint of flint. Full-bodied, it offers flavors of bitter grapefruit, apricot, and lemon. The fine, lively bubbles lend it length and intensity. Made from organically grown grapes. Will improve with age. Enjoy now or celller.