Champagne Philipponnat - Royale Réserve Brut

Philipponnat continues its family legacy in Champagne. Based in Mareuil-sur-Ay, the house is famous for its Clos-des-Goisses, the largest vineyard in all of Champagne (5.5 hectares), which overlooks the Marne River from a steep cliff and has been in the family’s ownership since 1935. Since 1997, it has continued to thrive under the leadership of Charles Philipponnat. The vineyard is managed with a deep respect for the vines, employing only the essential practices to preserve them. In the cellar, the barrels and large oak casks set the tone and define the complex, rich, and precise style of all the cuvées. One detail also sums up the attention paid to the wines here: the back label specifies the dates of bottling and disgorgement (which make it clear that the aging period far exceeds the norm), as well as the dosage and the origin of the blend. With packaging that reflects the elegant simplicity and distinction of all the cuvées, everything here converges toward perfection.

Few producers are as successful as Philipponnat at crafting non-vintage wines dominated by Pinot Noir. The latest vintage features ripe apricots, orange citrus, and pale raspberries, underpinned by the crisp energy of lemon zest and the subtle resonance of a perpetual reserve aged in oak at 34%. Extremely expressive, it is an irresistible NV.

Powerful and harmonious, blending white floral notes with spicy and slightly smoky hints derived from the partial barrel aging of reserve wines, the nose hints at a great champagne. This impression is confirmed on the palate, which is round and harmonious, with smooth aromas of quince, offering a long finish where the spices reappear, combined with the freshness of grapefruit. “Surely the hallmark of fine reserve wines and extended aging,” concludes one taster.

The Philipponnat family has owned vineyards in Aÿ since the early 16th century; as wine merchants and winemakers, they have a coat of arms dating from the late 17th century and a château in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, acquired in 1910. The crown jewel of their 22-hectare estate (comprising 1er cru and grand cru vineyards) is the Clos des Goisses, purchased in 1935, which produces the house’s most famous vintage prestige cuvée. It is one of the few walled vineyards in Champagne and also the largest (5.5 hectares), situated on a steep hillside overlooking the Marne’s lateral canal and the river itself. The non-vintage cuvées derive their style from the addition of reserve wines aged in wood according to the solera principle, or perpetual reserve. Thierry Garnier has been the cellar master since 2005.

Its freshness and intense fruitiness are reminiscent of sweet apple, summer pear, and a hint of bergamot. On the palate, it is round and smooth, carried by a charming dosage that tempers the acidity. Thanks to its soft bubbles and pleasant bitterness, it offers an intense drinking experience.

The NV Brut Royale Réserve reveals an elegant, floral bouquet with notes of white flowers, spring blossoms, ripe orchard fruits, and lemon oil. Medium-bodied, ripe, and textured, with a chalky undertone, it is fresh and has a luscious finish. A fine wine.

Even in its unblended form, Royale Réserve offers a rich, indulgent flavor while remaining smooth and mouthwatering. This is a truly exceptional introduction that showcases all the hard work put in by the house. We also applaud, in this inflationary climate, a pricing policy that remains very reasonable.

Having joined the Lanson-BCC group in 1997, this mid-sized house is self-sufficient in both its sourcing and winemaking. It has made a name for itself in the high-end Champagne segment thanks to the renewed character of its Clos des Goisses. The brand’s rise is also a testament to the decisions made across the entire lineup by its president, Charles Philipponnat, who has been in office since 2000. He has introduced cooler temperatures to the winemaking process, reoriented the blends toward a higher proportion of Pinot Noir, and increased the capacity for aging in oak on lees without stirring or malolactic fermentation. His goal? To infuse the spirit of vintage wines into non-vintage ones. The wines tasted confirm the excellence and precision observed recently, starting with the Brut Royale Réserve. A house at the top of its game.

A complex, smoky nose with notes of orange blossom, green apple, licorice, chalky minerality, and toasted bread. Refined on the palate with a fine mousse, lively acidity, and a tight, taut, and clean finish.