Champagne Philipponnat - Royale Réserve Brut

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

Philipponnat continues its family legacy in Champagne. Based in Mareuil-sur-Ay, the house is famous for its Clos-des-Goisses, the largest vineyard in all of Champagne (5.5 hectares), which overlooks the Marne River from a steep cliff and has been in the family’s ownership since 1935. Since 1997, it has continued to thrive under the leadership of Charles Philipponnat. The vineyard is managed with a deep respect for the vines, adhering to the essential practices required to preserve them. In the cellar, the barrels and large oak casks set the tone and define the complex, rich, and precise style characteristic of all the cuvées. One detail also sums up the attention paid here to the wines: the back label specifies the dates of bottling and disgorgement (which make it clear that the aging period far exceeds standard practice), as well as the dosage and the origin of the blend. With labeling that reflects the elegant simplicity and distinction of all the cuvées, everything here converges toward perfection.

Decanter

About the wine:

Few producers are as successful as Philipponnat at crafting non-vintage wines dominated by Pinot Noir. The latest vintage features ripe apricots, orange citrus, and pale raspberries, underpinned by the crisp energy of lemon zest and the subtle resonance of a perpetual reserve aged in oak at 34%. Extremely expressive, this is an irresistible NV.

Guide Hachette des vins

About the wine:

Powerful and harmonious, blending white floral notes with spicy and slightly smoky hints derived from the partial barrel aging of reserve wines, the nose hints at a great Champagne. This impression is confirmed on the palate, which is round and harmonious, with smooth quince aromas, offering a long finish where the spices reappear, combined with the freshness of grapefruit. “Surely the hallmark of fine reserve wines and extended aging,” concludes one taster.

About the estate:

The Philipponnats have owned vineyards in Aÿ since the early 16th century; as wine merchants and winemakers, they have a coat of arms dating from the late 17th century and a château in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, acquired in 1910. The crown jewel of their 22-hectare estate (comprising 1er cru and grand cru vineyards) is the Clos des Goisses, purchased in 1935, which produces the house’s most famous vintage prestige cuvée. It is one of the few walled vineyards in Champagne and also the largest (5.5 hectares), situated on a steep hillside overlooking the Marne’s lateral canal and the river itself. The non-vintage cuvées derive their style from the addition of reserve wines aged in wood according to the solera principle, or perpetual reserve. Thierry Garnier has been the cellar master since 2005.

Guide des Vins Gault & Millau

About the wine:

Its freshness and intense fruitiness are reminiscent of sweet apple, summer pear, and a hint of bergamot. The palate is round and smooth, carried by a charming dosage that tempers the acidity. Thanks to its soft bubbles and pleasant bitterness, it offers an intense drinking experience.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

The NV Brut Royale Réserve reveals an elegant, floral bouquet with notes of white flowers, spring blossoms, ripe orchard fruits, and lemon oil. Medium-bodied, ripe, and textured, with a chalky undertone, it is fresh and has a luscious finish. A fine wine.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

Even in its raw form, Royale Réserve offers this indulgent richness, while remaining smooth and mouthwatering. A truly exceptional introduction that showcases all the hard work put in by the house. We also commend, in this inflationary climate, a pricing policy that remains very reasonable.

About the estate:

Having joined the Lanson-BCC group in 1997, this mid-sized house is self-sufficient in both its sourcing and winemaking. It has made a name for itself in the high-end Champagne segment thanks to the renewed character of its Clos des Goisses. The brand’s rise is also a testament to the decisions made across the entire lineup by its president, Charles Philipponnat, who has been in office since 2000. He introduced cooler temperatures to the winemaking process, reoriented the blends toward a higher proportion of Pinot Noir, and increased the capacity for aging in oak on the lees without stirring or malolactic fermentation. His goal? To infuse the spirit of a vintage into non-vintage wines. The wines tasted confirm the excellence and precision observed recently, starting with the Brut Royale Réserve. A house at the top of its game.

Wine Enthusiast

James Suckling

About the wine:

A complex, smoky nose with notes of orange blossom, green apple, licorice, chalky minerality, and toast. Refined on the palate with a fine effervescence, lively acidity, and a tight, taut, and crisp finish.