Champagne Philipponnat - Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut 2018

Philipponnat continues its family legacy in Champagne. Based in Mareuil-sur-Ay, the house is famous for its Clos-des-Goisses, the largest vineyard in all of Champagne (5.5 hectares), which overlooks the Marne River from a steep cliff and has been in the family’s ownership since 1935. Since 1997, it has continued to thrive under the leadership of Charles Philipponnat. The vineyard is managed with a deep respect for the vines, employing only the essential practices to preserve them. In the cellar, the barrels and large oak casks set the tone and define the complex, rich, and precise style of all the cuvées. One detail also sums up the attention paid to the wines here: the back label specifies the dates of bottling and disgorgement (which make it clear that the aging period far exceeds the norm), as well as the dosage and the origin of the blend. With packaging that reflects the elegant simplicity and distinction of all the cuvées, everything here converges toward perfection.

The Philipponnat family has owned vineyards in Aÿ since the early 16th century; as wine merchants and winemakers, they have a coat of arms dating from the late 17th century and a château in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, acquired in 1910. The crown jewel of their 22-hectare estate (comprising 1er cru and grand cru vineyards) is the Clos des Goisses, purchased in 1935, which produces the house’s most famous vintage prestige cuvée. It is one of the few walled vineyards in Champagne and also the largest (5.5 hectares), situated on a steep hillside overlooking the Marne’s lateral canal and the river itself. The non-vintage cuvées derive their style from the addition of reserve wines aged in wood according to the solera principle, or perpetual reserve. Thierry Garnier has been the cellar master since 2005.

The 2016 Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut has a velvety mouthfeel, depth, and power.

Having joined the Lanson-BCC group in 1997, this mid-sized house is self-sufficient in both its sourcing and winemaking. It has made a name for itself in the high-end Champagne segment thanks to the renewed character of its Clos des Goisses. The brand’s rise is also a testament to the decisions made across the entire lineup by its president, Charles Philipponnat, who has been in office since 2000. He has introduced cooler temperatures to the winemaking process, reoriented the blends toward a higher proportion of Pinot Noir, and increased the capacity for aging in oak on lees without stirring or malolactic fermentation. His goal? To infuse the spirit of vintage wines into non-vintage ones. The wines tasted confirm the excellence and precision observed recently, starting with the Brut Royale Réserve. A house at the top of its game.