Mas de Daumas Gassac - IGP Saint-Guilhem le désert rouge 2024

Much has been written about the Daumas-Gassac estate. Aimé Guibert—who passed away in 2016—had identified high-quality terroirs in Aniane capable of producing a Cabernet Sauvignon not authorized by the local appellations. For his white wine, he also chose to produce a blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, and Petit Manseng, which likewise barred him from using the appellation. His estate therefore produces a red (an 80% blend of non-cloned Cabernet Sauvignon accompanied by about twenty other grape varieties, most of them rare) and a white (also a multi-varietal blend) under the Hérault IGP, which he has successfully positioned at a price point unprecedented in this category. The white is aged in stainless steel tanks, while the red is partially aged in barrels. Both the white and red wines possess unmatched purity, precision, and complexity, and age remarkably well. The lineup is rounded out by pleasant IGP wines, designed to be enjoyed young. A sure bet in the region.

A fine example of the rise of Languedoc wines across five continents, this estate—founded in 1971 by Aimé and Véronique Guibert—caused a stir a few years ago by offering regional wines at the same price as top Bordeaux wines. It has, however, remained at the forefront with wines of consistent quality and remarkable aging potential. Today, this leading estate is run by the founders’ sons.

Aimé Guibert was a leading figure in the revival of Languedoc’s wine industry and in its rise to prominence first in France and then internationally, after purchasing his old farmhouse nestled along the banks of the Gassac River. He helped restore the potential of the limestone terroir of the Upper Gassac Valley—composed of glacial gravel—in the foothills of the Cévennes. The wide diurnal temperature range and the nature of the soils convinced him that this was a great terroir for Cabernet Sauvignon, which would be sourced from mass selection of the finest Bordeaux châteaux. Aimé’s sons—Samuel, Gaël, Roman, and Basile—now steer the estate’s future. Daumas Gassac has distinguished itself through its potential and longevity. Like the world’s great Cabernet Sauvignons, it is best enjoyed after at least a decade. While the estate’s legacy is immense and undeniable—and the quality of the reds is consistently high (even if the wines do not necessarily reflect the terroir)—we expect much more from the entire range.

Dark and bold; blood and raspberries; anise and shiso; ink, olive, and iron. Very bloody at this raw and wild stage of its life, which has barely begun. Its flavor is gothic, vigorous, succulent, and dripping with blackberry juice—everything is on edge. We must wait, and wait some more.

Aromas of ripe black cherry, blackcurrant, fresh violet, and subtle notes of cedar characterize this barrel sample of the 2024 Rouge. Notes of dried herbs further enrich its aromatic complexity. Round and refined, this refreshing 2024 wine is built around a core of supple tannins and well-defined acidity. It is a Mas de Daumas Gassac red wine of exceptional elegance in the making.

Tasted straight from the barrel, the 2024 IGP Saint-Guilhem-Le-Désert Cité D’Aniane comes across as very young and fruity, hinting at the beautiful complexity to come. With its bouquet featuring notes of flowers, blueberry, blackberry, cumin, star anise, ink, black pepper, tobacco, and red chili pepper, one can sense the influence of Cabernet Sauvignon, which is once again the dominant grape variety in this cuvée. Fresh and surprisingly savory, this is a supple and easy-to-drink red wine, with a tight yet very refined structure and a distinguished character reminiscent of a tailor-made three-piece suit, with a touch of generosity to boot. It will evolve toward greater complexity, finesse, and depth and will be superb over the next 20 years. Best enjoyed between 2025 and 2040.