Domaine Raspail-Ay - Gigondas 2022

Dominique Ay is Gigondas’s “wise old man” in the noblest sense of the term. A distinguished president of the appellation for many years, he is one of the leading figures of the Southern Rhône. With his deep understanding of Grenache, he brings out the full character of the clay-limestone soils of the Parties terroir. The aging process then takes on its full significance, as the wines are aged in large oak casks for at least 24 months. His children have now taken up the torch, with Anne-Sophie in charge of sales and Christophe overseeing the winery and vineyard—no small feat! With a timeless style, the estate’s sole wine is known for its longevity. Very powerful and structured—even firm—in its youth, it develops a silky texture and perfect balance.

There is a slight hint of reduction upon opening, which softens with aeration—so decanting is recommended. It is fresh and taut on the palate, with plenty of tannins, so it needs time to open up. It offers velvety aromas of red fruit—very typical of a Gigondas in terms of its fruity character—and a long finish with a hint of saltiness. It is very tannic but should soften after a few years. The average age of the vines is 55 years. The Grenache was aged in old oak casks; the Syrah in barrels and demi-muids.

The 2022 Gigondas from Domaine Raspail-Ay offers a deep and complex bouquet of ripe cherries, flowers, dark wild berries, and peonies, intertwined with subtle woody notes. Medium-bodied to full-bodied, dense, and concentrated, it features a fleshy core of fruit framed by structured tannins and a long, delicately peppery finish. This exceptional and highly mineral Gigondas is composed of 70% Grenache Noir, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre. The Grenache and Mourvèdre were aged in large oak casks, while the Syrah was aged in used barrels and large oak casks.

The estate’s wine is the quintessential example of a fine Gigondas: full-bodied, vigorous, and unpretentious. With a firm, tight structure, the best vintages require four to five years of aging to fully open up. From that point on, they develop beautiful complexity over time and continue to improve for ten to twenty years.

This wine exudes understated elegance, with a subtle reductive veil gracefully lifting to reveal a vibrant core of pure red fruit, savory umami, and a delicate hint of lavender and violet. It is finely balanced, offering harmony and terroir without exaggeration. While already very enjoyable to drink now, it is nevertheless structured enough to age gracefully through 2030 and beyond.

Very dense on the nose—ripe red fruits, blackberry, and licorice. On the palate, it is ripe and round, with sweet black fruits, firm tannins, concentrated acidity, and a hint of herbaceousness. Both flavorful and smooth!

The 2022 Gigondas reminds me a bit of the 1990. It has a fragrant, elegant, and ripe profile, with abundant aromas and flavors of sweet red fruits, lush garrigue, and sandalwood, as well as floral nuances that emerge over time in the glass. Medium-bodied and well-balanced, both rich and elegant, it should benefit from a few years of bottle aging and can be enjoyed for more than 15 years.