Mas Amiel - Maury Millésime 1985

We first noted this wine back in 2016, and it continues to shine. It remains as exceptional as ever, with its bouquet of dried flowers, balsamic notes, cocoa, and mocha, along with hints of smoke and toasted hazelnut. As it continues to develop in complexity, its impeccably structured framework supports this wine of great character—robust yet refined. A must-try from the appellation.

In Maury, Mas Amiel comprises 150 hectares of vineyards in production, spread across 132 plots, overlooked by the Cathar castle of Quéribus. Olivier Decelle (also owner of Château Jean Faure in Saint-Émilion) has acted as a patron, gradually restoring it to peak production condition, assisted in this effort since 2007 by Nicolas Raffy, who is deeply passionate about these lands. With the transition to biodynamic farming, the character of the wines will certainly continue to evolve in the years to come. While natural sweet wines have by no means been neglected, the focus has shifted toward the production of very modern dry wines, with a broad range covering all styles. A must-visit estate!

The 1985 Maury Doux has a deep coffee color, accompanied by an almost rancio-like bouquet of tart figs, caramel, licorice, and toasted spices. This gives way to a seriously concentrated, decadent, and velvety wine that still manages to remain fresh and lively on the palate. As usual, it is a 100% Grenache that was aged entirely in large oak casks. I would drink bottles over the next 5 to 10 years, but it will continue to evolve for even longer.

It offers a mellow sweetness, great depth, and a rich, evocative character. A great wine.

In the heart of the Maury region, at the foot of the hillside, stands a large estate with rows of demi-jeannes in which the wines age for a year in the sun before being transferred to the barrel cellar for decades. Mas Amiel, the first estate in the Olivier Decelle portfolio, is a chapter in the history of Roussillon. An estate that celebrates the tradition of great natural sweet wines, while also innovating with dry wines, featuring a refined, full-bodied, and perfectly balanced style, rooted in a heritage of old vines. Nicolas Raffy, a talented Catalan winemaker, proudly champions wines made from calcoschist, black marl, and granite soils. He has identified steeply sloped plots and adapted his blends, aging methods, and harvest dates so that the dry Maury wines can stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the VDNs at the very top. The estate is now undeniably one of the leading names in the region. In recent years, the progress made with the dry wines has been spectacular. The third star is on the horizon.