Louis Sipp - Gewurztramier Grand Cru Osterberg 2012

Étienne Sipp manages this prominent 40-hectare estate located on the hillsides surrounding Ribeauvillé, which includes, among others, the grand cru vineyards of Kirchberg and Osterberg. The standout wines here are, of course, the Rieslings; the terroirs of the Ribeauvillé region are wonderfully suited to this grape variety, particularly in 2013, 2014, or 2017—wines that age perfectly over several decades, as the estate demonstrates by opening old bottles from the 1970s, even though viticulture at that time was far from adhering to today’s organic standards (the estate is now certified). At the entry level, the wines clearly express the briny character that the upcoming municipal appellations are expected to require.

The 2012 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Osterberg offers a lovely, clean, and ripe bouquet with well-defined fruit notes, as well as mineral and even smoky aromas. Full-bodied and rich, with lovely freshness, firm tannins, and a lingering salinity, this is a round and aromatic Gewurz—elegant and well-structured—with lively acidity and good minerality. The finish is perhaps a bit harsh at this stage.

Passionate about his terroirs, Étienne Sipp cultivates a vast organic vineyard, including two lovely grands crus: the Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé and the Osterberg, vinified with aging in mind and always refined. The plot-by-plot work he has been carrying out for several years is highly commendable. We have a preference for the estate’s white wines, where Riesling reigns supreme. Given the vineyard’s potential, it could achieve even greater heights, and some of the wines are disappointing; regretfully, we are removing the star this year.