Marcel Deiss - Burlenberg rouge 2022

While Jean-Michel Deiss spends a great deal of time in his vineyards, it is his son Mathieu who oversees the winemaking process. An engaging winemaker, his sensibility is evident in the evolution of the wines—particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. For the whites, experiments with maceration lend body and depth to the textures on the palate. As both a winemaker and an entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded the vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his “Vignoble du Rêveur” project, which he runs with his partner, Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been dedicated to the production of grapevines, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, strengthening its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of winemaking.

An admirable Burlenberg, with notes of blood and licorice, whose powerful flavors explode on the finish: its stone fruit and ash notes, framed by chalky tannins, impress with their integrity and depth.

Mathieu Deiss has succeeded his father, Jean-Michel, as head of this venerable estate in Bergheim. Mixed planting remains the guiding principle, even for the grands crus. Although this method is a time-honored tradition in the region, it is still rarely practiced and remains a source of deep division among winemakers. The Deiss family continues to push the boundaries of this approach, producing compelling, complex wines with marvelous intensity of flavor and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother’s vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces, among other things, top-tier orange wines). The wines are exceptional for the region, which can be a bit disorienting for consumers, but the result is magnificent. With a few years of hindsight, one can analyze the precision of the terroir definitions and these wines’ ability to maintain their own balance. Don’t miss the estate’s unique geo-sensory tasting experience, which helps you understand the relationship between a wine’s characteristics and the terroir from which it was born.

The 2022 Burlenberg is a Pinot Noir blended with a small proportion of Pinot Blanc, sourced from high-altitude vineyards where limestone meets granite and volcanic ash. The nose is subtle, with a slight smoky note, but the palate reveals all the character one would expect from this wine, with a beautiful, serene vigor, persistence, and presence. It carries the warmth of the vintage but handles it perfectly. The tannins are dense yet well-integrated, and despite its inevitable power, the wine is magnificently taut and controlled. A magnificent wine with an extraordinary personality. (Very dry)

Southeast-facing terroir. Volcanic soils with very dark, hard limestone scorched by lava. For the first time, the Burlenberg was aged for three years in barrels to thoroughly round out the tannins. The bouquet lives up to the reputation of the vineyard and its terroir, where fruit and freshness capture the essence of this sun-drenched vintage. Dense on the palate, the wine stands out for its harmonious balance of vigor and minerality. It clearly benefits from its aging, which rounds out the edges and enhances its body while respecting the vineyard’s unique character. The insightful message also emphasizes the patience required; while the wine is certainly there, it is now a matter of waiting. A wine with a distinct identity that hints at its rich flavor! 2027–2038