Zind-Humbrecht - Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Goldert 2011

The aromas are exceptionally pure, with subtle citrus bitterness; this delicate wine is on par with a VT, perfectly complemented by a fresh, balanced acidity.

For three decades, this estate—a model of Alsatian winemaking—has told the story of the Humbrecht family. Léonard, the founder, was a visionary who acquired the region’s finest terroirs, including the famous Rangen. Olivier, his son, brilliantly introduced the principles of biodynamics as early as the 1990s. And today, Pierre-Émile, who joined the estate during the very challenging 2021 vintage, is continuing their legacy, particularly with the latest acquisitions on the Sommerberg.

With slightly less residual sugar than the Clos Windsbuhl and Heimbourg, the 2011 Gewurztraminer Goldert is completely different, no doubt due to the fact that the grapes remain on the vine longer. Praline and salted caramel, cinnamon and ginger, lychee and rose make up this heady bouquet, along with a lush, creamy, almost buttery palate. The “candy-like” style here isn’t accompanied by the fresh fruit or the crisp finish of the two wines mentioned above, but there’s a richness on the finish that will be hard for lovers of sweet Gewürztraminer to resist. Expect it to age beautifully until at least 2028.

An tireless ambassador for his wines and the region, Olivier Humbrecht—the first Frenchman to earn the Master of Wine designation—has long understood the importance of work in the vineyard. He converted the estate to biodynamic farming in 1999 and is one of its leading advocates, serving as president of the Biodyvin label. This approach to viticulture has allowed him to avoid botrytis and reduce alcohol levels. The wines have evolved over the years and now exhibit a decidedly dry style, while the large casks age them several meters underground. Like all great Alsatian wines, they reach their full potential after a few years or decades of aging. The Clos Windsbuhl is a must-try, and the Rangen de Thann really comes into its own with age. Pierre-Emile, Olivier’s son, has just joined the estate. The excellence of this production, respected by all, has earned this iconic estate a place in the pantheon of our guide with a fourth star.