Zind-Humbrecht - Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal 2013 (liquoreux)

For three decades, this estate—a model of Alsatian winemaking—has told the story of the Humbrecht family. Léonard, the founder, was a visionary who acquired the region’s finest terroirs, including the famous Rangen. Olivier, his son, brilliantly introduced the principles of biodynamics as early as the 1990s. And today, Pierre-Émile, who joined the estate during the very challenging 2021 vintage, is continuing their legacy, particularly with the latest acquisitions on the Sommerberg.

Clos Jebsal is a steep, terraced vineyard covering 1.3 hectares with soils composed of gypsum mixed with blue and green marl (Keuper); it took the Humbrecht family 15 years to complete the vineyard by purchasing several parcels from six different producers. The vineyard was replanted in 1983 and, according to Olivier, still produces sweet wines with botrytis. However, the 2013 Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal is “one of the driest we’ve made so far”—at least it doesn’t taste as sweet as the technical data suggests: 12.7% alcohol plus 68 grams per liter of residual sugar. In fact, the 2013 Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal is a wildly unexpected Vendange Tardive. “We never would have thought a VT would be possible in 2013,” says Olivier Humbrecht, who bottled this subtle wine—with 12.7% alcohol and 68 grams of residual sugar—in August 2014. The Jebsal opens with a deep, precise, slightly flinty, fresh, and aromatic lemon nose, revealing delicate honey flavors as well as aromas of stone fruit, pear, quince, and grapefruit. Highly aromatic, lush, charming, sweet, very elegant, and quite spicy on the palate, this is a rather lean and highly mineral VT style—precise and full of tension—that lacks the richness and opulence of its 2012 predecessor (at least at this early stage); yet it lacks neither intensity, excitement, nor drinkability. Excellent and very stimulating, but it’s best to lay it down.

Intense, ripe fruit, dried apricot. All the characteristics of a VT.

An tireless ambassador for his wines and the region, Olivier Humbrecht—the first Frenchman to earn the Master of Wine designation—has long understood the importance of work in the vineyard. He converted the estate to biodynamic farming in 1999 and is one of its leading advocates, serving as president of the Biodyvin label. This approach to viticulture has allowed him to avoid botrytis and reduce alcohol levels. The wines have evolved over the years and now exhibit a decidedly dry style, while the large casks age them several meters underground. Like all great Alsatian wines, they reach their full potential after a few years or decades of aging. The Clos Windsbuhl is a must-try, and the Rangen de Thann really comes into its own with age. Pierre-Emile, Olivier’s son, has just joined the estate. The excellence of this production, respected by all, has earned this iconic estate a place in the pantheon of our guide with a fourth star.

It is very pure, with notes of grape must, pear, and peach. Full-bodied, slightly sweet, and bright. The lively acidity balances the sweetness. On par with a late-harvest wine. Best enjoyed now.