Domaine Zind-Humbrecht - Alsace Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal - Vendange Tardive 2015

For three decades, this estate—a model of Alsatian winemaking—has told the story of the Humbrecht family. Léonard, the founder, was a visionary who acquired the region’s finest terroirs, including the famous Rangen. Olivier, his son, brilliantly introduced the principles of biodynamics as early as the 1990s. And today, Pierre-Émile, who joined the estate during the very challenging 2021 vintage, is continuing their legacy, particularly with the latest acquisitions on the Sommerberg.

Grown on marl soils that give it good body, the 2015 Clos Jebsal Vendange Tardive Pinot Gris is a breathtaking wine. It is rich, smooth, and creamy on the palate, with plenty of structure and tension. The tannins are firm yet refined, and it has significant aging potential.

An tireless ambassador for his wines and the region, Olivier Humbrecht—the first Frenchman to earn the Master of Wine designation—has long understood the importance of work in the vineyard. He converted the estate to biodynamic farming in 1999 and is one of its leading advocates, serving as president of the Biodyvin label. This approach to viticulture has allowed him to avoid botrytis and reduce alcohol levels. The wines have evolved over the years and now exhibit a decidedly dry style, while the large casks age them several meters underground. Like all great Alsatian wines, they reach their full potential after a few years or decades of aging. The Clos Windsbuhl is a must-try, and the Rangen de Thann really comes into its own with age. Pierre-Emile, Olivier’s son, has just joined the estate. The excellence of this production, respected by all, has earned this iconic estate a place in the pantheon of our guide with a fourth star.

The nose is still closed and reveals little. The palate has a voluptuous structure, but it is tightly constrained: everything is present, yet still tightly held back. The peach notes possess a serene, effortless sweetness that is perfectly balanced by the freshness of orange and Meyer lemon. This wine is balanced and sweet, yet it is counterbalanced and cut by immense freshness. The aromas have yet to fully unfold. Blood orange and peach show great promise. What stands out is the fluid, balanced texture of this late-harvest wine, as well as its supreme purity. Let it age. Best enjoyed between 2020 and 2035.

Ripe, full-bodied, and succulent melon, but also plenty of freshness and vitality. The natural CO2 fizz really helps bring out the subtle mineral finish. A wine with great staying power that is just beginning to open up.