Clos de la Roilette - La Griffe du Marquis 2019

This well-located estate—which includes seven hectares in the famous Roilette sector, where Fleurie overlooks the windmill—has not been spared by hailstorms, as, unfortunately, has most of the appellation. The wines produced here always display great finesse and velvety smoothness. Slow to open up and often austere, they set the tone on the palate with great elegance. The 2016 vintages confirm their lighter yet highly elegant style. A note to lovers of fine wines: the wines of La Roilette are not about the nose—it’s all about the palate and the texture. Patience will be rewarded, as the delicacy of these wines beautifully conceals their great aging potential. The rare but delicious 2017 vintage confirms this trend.

The estate takes its name from its former owner, who, in the 1900s, wanted to pay tribute to his best horse, which was stabled at a Parisian racing stable. The 13 hectares of Gamay vines benefit from granitic sandy soils, from which Alain Coudert produces several vintages of Fleurie and Brouilly.

As I have already written, the Coudert family acquired the famous Clos de la Roilette in Fleurie—located next to Moulin-à-Vent and formerly marketed under that name—in 1967, and Alain has been at the helm since 1991. The soils there are rich in clay and manganese, and this, combined with a traditional approach to maceration, produces full-bodied, structured wines that age very well. Vinified largely with whole clusters and the traditional submerged cap method, these wines are typically deep in color with plenty of fruit and tannins. The 2019 vintage turned out particularly well, and it is the most overtly floral vintage—in the sense that this appellation is known for its aroma and finesse—that Coudert has produced in a decade.

Clos de la Roilette has been in the Coudert family since 1967, with Alain overseeing his first harvest in 1982. Covering 14 hectares, the estate expanded in 2005 with the acquisition of a Brouilly plot located in the village of Saint-Lager. In Fleurie, old vines surround the cellar. Also worth noting are 3 hectares in the Champagne sector, located southwest of the village. The wines are unpretentious in style. The winemaking process involves traditional whole-cluster fermentation and aging in used oak casks. The Les Griffes du Marquis cuvée is aged for twelve months in barrels. These wines, which offer good aging potential, are dense and full-bodied.