Le Haut-Médoc de Lagrange 2016

This vast vineyard estate, which—like its neighbor Gruaud-Larose—is remarkably uniform, has seen its vines mature and impart an unprecedented intensity to its grand cru, while refining its style over the past three years thanks to the efforts of the current technical team. Its wine is a straightforward, classic, almost mineral expression of the finest terroirs of Saint-Julien, revealing an undeniable similarity in flavor and style to Léoville-Las-Cases—which is no small compliment. Excellent value for the price.

It is often thanks to the owner’s dedication that Bordeaux châteaux are able to reach their full potential. Lagrange was not so fortunate, changing hands frequently. It wasn’t until the Japanese group Suntory took over in 1983 that the estate received the attention it deserved: the vineyard was replanted, a new winery was built, and, most importantly, a top-notch team was assembled under the leadership of Marcel Ducasse—who was replaced in 2007 by Bruno Eynard, who had served as his assistant for 17 years. The new winery now facilitates even more precise plot-by-plot winemaking.

Acquired by the Japanese group Suntory in 1983, the château quickly established itself as a reliable and consistent performer within the appellation, producing elegant, well-structured, and consistently affordable wines. It is a vast estate managed with great care, but its most recent vintages—while by no means disappointing—have struck us as slightly less compelling. In a highly competitive landscape, facing neighbors who spare no effort to produce the finest wines possible, Lagrange seems somewhat stagnant, leading us to remove its star.