Château Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 2022 - 1er Grand Cru Classé

A premier cru of Pauillac, Lafite owes its unparalleled finesse to its gravel soils in the northern part of the appellation, set on a limestone base, along with extremely rigorous selections that eliminate more than half of the harvest. Strongly dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon—often accounting for more than 90% of the blend—Lafite shines with notes of cedar and graphite that take more than fifteen years to fully develop. The new team in charge of the estate (Saskia de Rothschild and Éric Kohler) is committed to adding more depth to both the first wine and the second wine.

Deep, dark, and understated, it offers aromas of fresh black fruits with notes of cocoa and the minerality of sea spray. Balanced and fragrant, it glides across the palate with Lafite’s characteristic elegance. The tannins delicately frame the red fruits and ensure perfect balance. Subtle yet imposing, with layers of refinement, depth, and complexity, and a menthol-like, stony, and crystalline purity. A masterpiece of restraint and precision. I love this wine. 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot. Organic. 2029–2050

This 2022 vintage—a true classic—is 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, drawing its strength from the vintage while being enveloped in a body that is both soft and voluptuous. Let’s take a closer look. The color is deep, and the nose is slow to open up: hints of roasted notes, sandalwood, and oriental spices, followed by a touch of peony, then fruit (blackcurrant, plum) that is both ripe and fresh. The rich, velvety texture on the attack lends comfort to a palate that gains structure thanks to creamy, very powdery, tight tannins—yet without any astringency. The finish, very savory, carries the aroma of grape must and reveals that hint of graphite that often characterizes this vintage as it ages. A truly beautiful journey. 2032–2050

A former seigneury, whose jurisdiction extended north of Pauillac, the estate owes its château and its winemaking tradition—established as early as the 17th century—to the Ségur family—Bordeaux parliamentarians and major vineyard owners—a tradition that earned it the status of a First Growth in 1855. But it owes its survival—having remained untouched by the divisions and sales that weakened so many prestigious estates—to the Rothschilds, who acquired it in 1868. It also owes its modernization and state-of-the-art facilities—such as its famous circular wine cellar designed by Ricardo Bofill—to the team led by Éric de Rothschild, who has been at the helm since 1974, and Charles Chevallier, its technical director until 2016. These facilities allow the estate to fully reveal the character of an exceptional terroir planted with 112 hectares of vines: a superb hilltop of fine, deep gravel over a limestone subsoil. In 2016, Éric Kohler took over as Lafite’s technical director, while Charles Chevallier remains a consultant and ambassador for the château.

In the bottle, the 2022 Lafite Rothschild has proven to be even better than expected. It is bursting with aromas of sweet red fruits, minty blackcurrant, violet, and cigar box. It is medium-bodied, velvety, and smooth, with a deep, enveloping core of vibrant fruit, beautifully refined tannins, and a long, fragrant finish. Even at this early stage, it is remarkably integrated and harmonious, and it is certainly the most elegant of the year’s Premiers Crus, reminding me of a modern version of the magical 1953 Lafite. 2030–2065

Masterful, Lafite stands out as the most refined of the Médoc wines when, after a few years of aging, it unleashes its captivating aromas of graphite and pencil lead. Tasting it is like discovering a unique texture and vitality. A vast estate spanning 178 hectares, 105 of which are planted with vines, Lafite has been owned by the Rothschild family since 1868. The château can also boast one of the richest collections of (very) old vintages, which demonstrates just how consistently exemplary the estate has been (with the exception of a few vintages). Saskia, daughter of Éric de Rothschild, took over as head of the group’s estates in 2018, while Éric Kholer has overseen winemaking since 2016. Of note in recent vintages is the progress made by the second wine, Les Carruades.

A modern benchmark Lafite that reveals aromas of tobacco, orange peel, cedar, pencil shavings, violets, and a cigar box—so fragrant. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with plenty of graphite, stone, and notes of red currant. The finish lingers for several minutes. It reminds me of the Lafites I loved so much several decades ago. It could be the great 1986 vintage. A blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. Best after 2030, but already fascinating.

On the nose, a captivating aroma that fills the mind with an immersive sweetness, like a hedonistic form of pranayama. From the very first sip, the wine unfolds on the palate with striking fullness, enveloping the entire body. Powerful yet delicate, it oscillates between caressing sweetness and mouth-watering freshness. Slow waves of fruit, sap, salt, and incense unfold majestically. Every subtle nuance blends into a harmonious whole, gliding across the tongue with infinite languor. 2032–2065

The freshness that Carruades foreshadowed is not merely echoed by Lafite, but literally brought to life, with stunning clarity, uncompromisingly and with precision. With a focus on balance, the bouquet even reveals incredible candied nuances to create an exceptional harmony. The depth suggested by the bouquet is perfectly reflected on the palate. The wine asserts itself with finesse and serenity right from the first sip. Aware of its vigor, the wine begins by displaying some tannins that underscore its power, without this power ever becoming overpowering—though one almost finds oneself teetering on the edge of the dark side! Ultimately, it is reason, finesse, detail, and precision that take the lead and give rise to a truly great Lafite Rothschild. It has always revealed itself slowly—this is nothing new—but it does so in a relaxed manner, with confidence and persuasion. The dry tannins provide ideal support; they provide structure, are refreshing, and go hand in hand with the character of a well-defined acidic structure, even if there is ultimately little of it. A delicate and subtle austerity thus stimulates the palate and extends the finish’s persistence. A wine of exceptional caliber. 2029–2057

A lovely, elegant nose—light, deep, and intense—displaying perfect balance and refinement. This wine benefits from being decanted. Superb delicacy and finesse within its intensity. It features notes of Boysenberry, vibrant blackcurrant, and, more subtly, blueberry, combined with hints of lilac. The palate is beautifully structured—supple, fresh, light, melodious, captivating, deep, delicate, and vibrant—with a lovely texture. It has a captivating, “come and get me” quality. On the palate, this wine expresses notes of juicy, fresh blackcurrant; vibrant, fresh cherry; and, more subtly, bright red berries, combined with hints of refined minerality, juicy, fresh purple plum, bright, juicy red berries, and subtle hints of chocolate. The tannins are velvety, rich, and elegant. Good length and superb persistence. A wonderful vibrancy. Superb airy character within its richness and power.