Château Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 2020 - 1er Grand Cru Classé

Philippine de Rothschild left her children an estate in excellent condition, managed by an impeccable technical team. Originally named Brane-Mouton, the estate became Mouton-Rothschild in 1853, when Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild acquired it. His great-grandson Philippe took over in 1922 and began bottling and marketing the wine. Mouton’s exceptional terroir and its very old vines—which have been brought to their fullest potential in recent vintages thanks to favorable weather conditions and a magnificent winery established in 2013—produce what is perhaps the most technically perfect wine in the Médoc. This will not prevent it from retaining its depth in great vintages before reaching a peak that is predicted to be glorious. The second wine, Petit-Mouton, resembles the grand vin like a younger brother, and the white wine, Aile-d’Argent, is gradually becoming one of the most well-rounded in the Médoc.

Acquired in 1853 by the Rothschild family, Château Mouton Rothschild is closely associated with Baron Philippe. Upon taking the helm of the estate in 1922, he restored its prestige by modernizing it—notably through the construction of the famous “grand chai”—an effort that culminated in 1973 with the revision of the 1855 classification and Mouton’s elevation to the rank of Premier Cru Classé. Baron Philippe also turned the estate into the foundation of a small empire comprising other vineyards and a wine merchant firm. He also played an important role in the history of wine by being one of the first to bottle wine at the château, as early as 1926, and by commissioning artists to design his labels. Starting in 1988, his daughter Philippine, who passed away in 2014, continued his legacy. Her children—Camille and Philippe Sereys de Rothschild and Julien de Beaumarchais de Rothschild—succeeded her. Philippe Dhalluin has been the director since 2003. At his disposal is an 84-hectare vineyard located primarily on a ridge of very deep gravel known as the “Plateau de Mouton,” as well as a brand-new fermentation facility completed in 2013.

The 2020 Mouton Rothschild is a striking wine—as soon as it landed in my glass, I regretted not having bought it en primeur. It offers complex aromas of minty blackcurrant, pencil shavings, clay, cigar wrapper, roasted espresso, and violet. It is medium-bodied to full-bodied, broad and layered, with tremendous concentration, beautifully refined tannins, and a long, penetrating finish. With an alcohol content of 12.8%, its emerging complexity, its indescribable sense of fullness, and its exquisite balance make it the purists’ choice among the trio of vintages: 2018, 2019, and 2020. In this vintage, the lots included in the blend were largely limited to the gravel terroirs that represent the heart of Mouton, which means there is slightly less for everyone. This was the first vintage overseen by Mouton’s new technical director, Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy, and he got off to a flying start. 2030–2070

The 2020 Mouton confirmed without a shadow of a doubt its potential during the en primeur tastings. This well-balanced wine impresses with its power, as well as its vibrancy and refinement. On the palate, it unfolds waves of fresh fruit, carried by the slightly minty freshness of its tannins.

Philippe Sereys de Rothschild has presided over this iconic family-owned estate in Pauillac since 2014. The wine, as flamboyant as ever and naturally exuding generous smoky notes, is more in its element than ever. Although Mouton experienced a slump in the mid-1990s, it made a brilliant comeback in the early 2000s. Since then, a series of magnificent vintages has continued to write the legend of the only 1855 classified growth to have been promoted: from second growth, it logically rose to first growth in 1973. Philippe Dhalluin, the architect of the estate’s revival, has handed the reins to a strong duo consisting of Ariane Khaida (general manager) and Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy (technical director). Mouton, which has had a new winery since 2013, remains at the pinnacle of its craft. Of particular note is the progress made by the white wine, which is clearer and more precise than ever.

The purity of blackcurrant, blueberries, crème de cassis, and flowers. Subtle notes of spearmint. Iron. Blood orange. Medium-bodied, with a compact palate—like a cylinder of perfectly ripe fruit and fine tannins. A million layers of tightly grained tannins. It just keeps unfolding. Such freshness and lightness. Ethereal. A new classic. A modern take on the 1986. 12.79% alcohol. 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Best enjoyed after 2030, but it’s hard not to drink it right now.

A serious, intoxicating nose with a deep, rich character and dark hues, featuring notes of black licorice. Simply magnificent. On the palate, a gradual explosion of pure, perfectly ripe, silky fruit. The refined palate features a captivating bitterness that lends complexity to this Premier Cru. This is what sets it apart from its (excellent) younger sibling and reminds us why it remains the king. A salty, enticing finish. A wine to die for. 2032–2062

The nose is fresh, elegant, and delicate, offering power (in subtlety), richness (in delicacy and finesse), a discreetly restrained quality, complexity, and a lovely, broad aromatic palette. It features notes of vibrant blackcurrant, vibrant redcurrant, and, more subtly, juicy and tangy blueberry, combined with hints of fleshy Gariguette strawberry, as well as delicate hints of lily, green cardamom, subtle hints of fresh blond tobacco, and subtle hints of cola. On the palate, it is fruity and offers juiciness, freshness, lovely definition, richness, a tangy backbone, smoothness, a slightly pulpy, harmonious quality, a silky texture, structure, beautiful savory depth, minerality, as well as a lovely airy character and subtlety. On the palate, this wine expresses notes of vibrant red currant, pulpy/juicy cherry, and, to a lesser extent, tart/juicy plum, combined with hints of fresh/juicy blackberry, as well as hints of fresh flowers, refined minerality, subtle hints of spice, cola, cherry blossom, fresh gravel, cardamom, and subtle hints of nutmeg. The tannins are fine, elegant, delicate, and precise. A delicate mouthfeel and a very subtle hint of bourbon vanilla on the finish and in the aftertaste.