Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion - Pessac-Léognan 2019

A small estate neighboring Haut-Brion, also spared from Pessac’s urbanization, Les Carmes Haut-Brion produces a very harmonious and subtle wine, in which Cabernet Franc, in particular, contributes its incomparable finesse. The estate was purchased in December 2010 by Patrice Pichet, head of the real estate group Patrimoniale Foncière Pichet. 2016 was the first vintage produced in the magnificent and boldly designed winery created by Philippe Starck and Luc Arsène-Henry. Patrice Pichet entrusted the management of the estate to the talented and perfectionist Guillaume Pouthier, who is elevating the property to the ranks of the very best.

One of my favorite wines of 2019; it captivates immediately and leaves a lasting impression. In the glass, it boasts a superb deep purple color and reveals notes of blackcurrant, violet, dark chocolate, and a hint of truffle. The “Bouchet” (Cabernet Franc) from old vines lends great aromatic intensity, both on the nose and on the palate. Delicious from the very first sip, it reveals flavors of ripe cherry, blood orange, and pink grapefruit, supported by a soft, appetizing acidity, as well as a pleasant hint of minerality in the tannins. It is a rich wine that nonetheless offers a delicate balance between fruit, acidity, freshness, structure, texture, and body. Restrained and well-balanced, it is so approachable that you’ll want to enjoy a glass right away, yet it has aging potential that will allow you to appreciate it for decades to come. General Manager Guillaume Pouthier says he simply wants to “make wine that’s easy to drink”; and indeed, this wine is eminently drinkable. Blend: 48% Cabernet Franc, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot. pH: 3.60. Aging: 80% in new barrels, 9% in amphorae, and 11% in large casks. Consultant: Stéphane Derenoncourt. 2026–2050

Nestled within the Bordeaux metropolitan area, like its neighbor Haut-Brion, this 4.7-hectare vineyard owes its name to the Grands Carmes, its owners until the Revolution, which led to its sale as national property. A wine merchant purchased it and transferred ownership in 1840 to the Chantecaille family, who retained it until 2010, when it was acquired by the Pichet real estate group. In 2012, Patrice Pichet doubled the estate’s size—from 4.7 hectares to 10.3 hectares—by acquiring part of Château le Thil Comte Clary.

By cultivating a distinctive style, defined by bold winemaking techniques that give whole-cluster fermentation a far from negligible role, Les Carmes Haut-Brion has established itself over the past few vintages as one of the most original wines in the appellation—and indeed in all of Bordeaux. The fruit expression comes across as “infused”—a term that’s very much in vogue, but perfectly justified here—and the tannins are remarkably fine. It should also be noted that the estate, acquired by the Pichet family in 2010, is situated on a distinctive terroir adjacent to Haut-Brion—one that ripens even earlier—and is home to a significant proportion of very old vines, particularly Cabernet Franc. The modernization of the winemaking facilities has enabled the estate to achieve a string of successes in recent vintages, following a truly impressive upward trajectory that justifies the third star it earned two years ago.

I didn’t have the opportunity to taste the 2019 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion while it was still in the barrel, but it proves to be quite remarkable in the bottle. Displaying a deep ruby color with purplish highlights, it unfolds a rich palette of red, blue, and black fruits, complemented by notes of violet, candied flowers, tobacco, and aromatic herbs. On the palate, it stands out for its medium- to full-bodied richness, a deep, complex, and concentrated texture, impeccable balance, and that rare blend of power and elegance characteristic of the greatest wines of Pessac. Illustrating the elegant style of this vintage, it ranks just behind the masterful and perfect 2018, while following in the footsteps of the 2016. Wine lovers will be delighted to have this “ Gem ” in their cellar; it will age well for 40 to 50 years, provided it is stored under proper conditions. Hats off to winemaker Guillaume Pouthier for this exciting new vintage. 2022–2072

The 2019 vintage certainly highlights Carmes’ enduring subtlety over the years. This wine dazzles with its finesse and complexity. It skillfully blends floral and fruity nuances while emphasizing its freshness. The wine is striking, incisive, balanced, and exceptionally fresh. It promises to be one of the very greatest Carmes of recent years, but it has not yet reached its full potential. That will come… sooner or later—and probably sooner… and we’ll be looking at three-digit scores… though, strictly speaking, that’s not really the point. Clearly, the wine is brilliant. 2027–2074

The only Pessac-Léognan I hadn’t been able to taste from the barrel turns out to be a real success! The wine opens with aromas of flowers, smoke, tobacco leaves, herbs, sea salt, blackberries, plums, and forest floor. As if that weren’t impressive enough, the wine is silky, intense, fresh, elegant, deep, and sensual on the palate. Highly complex and multifaceted, this remarkable wine offers a perfectly smooth finish that seems to linger forever. Let it rest in the cellar for a few years before opening a bottle; it has the potential to age and evolve gracefully for 2 to 3 decades. Best enjoyed between 2030 and 2060.

Tasted in July 2022 in Copenhagen. This was my first encounter with this wine—I hadn’t been able to taste it in Bordeaux while it was aging in barrels. 50% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 16% Merlot. This wine was definitely worth the wait! An extraordinary experience from start to finish. At first, this wine was a veritable paradise of aromas and fragrances. On the nose, it overwhelmed us with successive waves of freshly picked black cherries and blackcurrants. On the palate, it offered a flamboyant expression, a harmonious structure, a cashmere-like texture, lovely liveliness, a touch of sophistication, and remarkable complexity. After half an hour in the glass, the wine began to reveal the typical character of the Pessac-Léognan appellation, with briny notes evoking shellfish, a salty minerality, and smoky nuances—all without ever losing an ounce of its energy, vitality, or fruitiness. A truly epic wine! And what a magnificent pairing it will make with the 2020 vintage!