Louis Jadot - Famille Gagey Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras 2019

The Gagey family’s involvement with this true gem of Burgundy’s historical heritage began upon the death of Louis-Auguste Jadot. With no heir, the estate was entrusted in 1962 to André Gagey, who remained its manager until 1991, when he handed the reins to his son Pierre-Henry, who now oversees the 225 hectares of vineyards. Since 2011, winemaking has been overseen by Frédéric Barnier, who has seamlessly succeeded Jacques Lardière, further improving the consistency and uniformity of all the vintages. The white wines are pneumatically pressed and fermented directly in barrels, where they are aged on the lees with periodic stirring for 12 to 20 months. The red wines are vinified with the stems removed but without crushing, without cold pre-fermentation, and undergo a vatting period of 25 to 27 days before beginning their aging for 12 to 22 months in barrels, one-third of which are new.

Grown in a relatively cool terroir upstream from Teurons, along the road leading to the Hautes-Côtes. The grapes are destemmed and fermented for four weeks before aging, resulting in a wine with a nose of lively aromas of pomegranate and ripe cherry, followed by a fresh, firm texture, impressive density, and a lovely, lingering finish.

Another highlight this year—what else is new?—is the 2019 Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras from Domaine Gagey: an elegant, well-concentrated wine that reveals notes of cherries, red berries, rose petals, orange zest, and spicy oak. Medium- to full-bodied, with refined tannins and lively acidity, it is one of the estate’s finest Beaune vintages.

This prestigious wine merchant is run with great efficiency by Pierre-Henry Gagey, who is deeply involved in Burgundy. The company boasts an exceptionally extensive range and a superb collection of terroirs, including the major Burgundian appellations. Frédéric Barnier, who has been in charge of winemaking since 2012, is gradually making his mark by refining the wines. Consistency is one of this house’s strengths. While the whites display lovely balance, the reds are austere and severe, with oak notes that dominate the fruit—and even hints of acetate that, this year, make it difficult to assess certain vintages. Let’s hope this is only temporary, as the company’s reputation is at stake.

Ruby-garnet color. A fairly subtle nose, but very supple and fruity on the palate, with a hint of red hard candy. Very smooth and approachable. A slight touch of acidity on the finish. 2024–2036

All the red fruit notes and delicate earthy nuances you’d expect from a good red Beaune, in a particularly lively and expressive version, with an invigorating acidity that seems to make it dance on the palate. A slightly tart but wonderfully lively finish. Ready to drink now or worth cellaring.