Domaine Bernard Defaix - Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet 2023
2*Étoiles
Hachette
90-93/100
Burghound
16,5/20
Jancis Robinson
16/20
Bourgogne Aujourd'hui
“Beautifully textured, with excellent body, and obvious power, according to Burghound: a must-try for lovers of exceptional Chablis!”
This Premier Cru from the left bank of the Serein fully expresses the minerality of the Chablis terroir: flint, salinity, and a very slight bitterness on the finish. “Ripe aromas of candied citrus, poached pear, and shellfish with a hint of wet stone. The beautifully textured palate offers excellent volume with evident power and minerality. A wine well worth discovering. 90-93/Top value” (Burghound 2024)
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Eye
A dress in brilliant gold
Nose
A floral and elegant bouquet, with typical mineral notes of flint and gunflint
Palate
A beautiful texture and lovely richness lead to a long finish, with plenty of class and complexity, and a salty finish
Open
1 hour before
Drink from
2025
Drink before
2040
Food and wine pairings
Serve with fish in a white butter sauce, veal blanquette, or scallops au gratin...
Bettane & Desseauve
Rated estate (2020 guide) 1*Star (A high-quality, recommendable wine that lives up to what one would expect from its appellation(s))
About the estate:
We are delighted to welcome back Didier and Sylvain Defaix to this guide; they submitted samples to us again this year, and they certainly made the right decision. Since 2009, the estate has been transitioning to organic farming, and in the early years this had somewhat altered the balance of the wines, which we found disappointing at the time. Over time, everything has fallen into place, and the wines tasted this year are worthy representatives of the appellation.
Bourgogne Aujourd'hui
Wine rated (2024 guide) 16/20
About the wine:
Elegant aromas of citrus, white fruit, and pineapple, with a lemony note. The wine is fruit-forward, taut, dense, and well-defined, with great aging potential.
Guide Hachette des vins
Wine rated (2026 guide) 2* Stars (Outstanding wine)
Rated estate (2020 guide) Award-winning wines (This producer’s wines regularly receive awards from the guide)
About the wine:
With its pronounced minerality and the youthful austerity characteristic of the appellation, this Left Bank Premier Cru will require patience before revealing its full aromatic richness. A vegetal and fruity nose gives way to a well-structured palate, with just the right amount of oak, straightforward and taut, driven by natural acidity and minerality that carry the finish well into the distance. 2028–2035
About the estate:
Defaix is a well-established winery in Milly, taken over by Sylvain and Didier Defaix, Bernard’s sons. It is also a wine merchant established at the same time, which operates in the same spirit as the winery.
Robert Parker - Wine Advocate
Rated estate (2020 guide) Recommended (Wine producer recommended by Robert Parker - The Wine Advocate)
About the estate:
Founded in 1959 with just two hectares, Domaine Bernard Defaix now spans 27 hectares (certified organic since 2009), with its harvest supplemented by purchased grapes. Much of the production is fermented and aged in stainless steel, although the Chablis Vieilles Vignes and several of the premiers crus, as well as the Grand Cru Bougros and the Vaudésir, feature varying percentages of oak, most of which is used. The wines are lively and impactful, with good depth and concentration, and I found much to admire in the estate’s fine 2017 vintage. They deserve serious consideration.
RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France
Rated estate (2020 guide) Selected (Please note that this guide is a ranking, and as such, all the estates listed here—even those without a star—represent, in our view, the pinnacle of French winemaking.)
About the estate:
Sylvain and Didier Defaix are at the helm of the family-owned estate in Milly, whose vineyards are located on the left bank of the Serein. Their premier crus, though slightly less well-known than those on the right bank, offer delightful surprises in warm vintages, particularly on the Côte de Léchet terroir. Thanks to skillful winemaking and aging on lees in tanks, the wines gain body and are protected against oxidation. The more common wines from the merchant’s portfolio (Fourchaume premier cru and grands crus) simply bear the Bernard Defaix label, but are highly recommended. The entry-level wines offer remarkable value for money, and the grands crus have improved: the estate is in good shape.
Burghound
Wine rated (2024 guide) 90-93/100
About the wine:
Here, too, the oak influence is pleasantly subtle, though noticeable in the ripe, layered aromas of candied citrus, poached pear, shellfish, and a hint of wet stone. Here too, the medium-bodied, beautifully textured flavors display excellent volume and evident power and minerality on the sap-like, salty, and dry finish that is deceptively long. This wine is also well worth discovering. 2029+ / Top Value
Jancis Robinson
Wine rated (2023 guide) 16,5/20
About the wine:
Flavors of green fruit that are clearly intense enough to stand up to the oak. Good backbone. The structure is well-defined, but this wine should age very well and shouldn’t be ridiculously expensive. It isn’t incredibly long, however. 2027–2040