Domaine Bernard Defaix - Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet 2023

We welcome the return of Didier and Sylvain Defaix to this guide; they once again submitted samples this year, and they certainly made the right choice. Since 2009, the estate has been transitioning to organic farming, and in the early years this had somewhat altered the balance of the wines, which we found disappointing at the time. Over time, however, everything has fallen into place, and the wines tasted this year are worthy representatives of the appellation.

Elegant aromas of citrus, white fruits, and pineapple, with a hint of lemon. The wine is full of fruit, taut, dense, and finely crafted—perfect for aging.

A pronounced mineral character and the youthful austerity typical of the appellation: this Left Bank Premier Cru will require patience before revealing its full aromatic richness. A vegetal and fruity nose leads to a well-structured palate, with just the right amount of oak, straightforward, and taut with natural acidity and minerality that carry the finish well into the distance. 2028–2035

Defaix is a well-established winery in Milly, taken over by Sylvain and Didier Defaix, Bernard’s sons. It is also a wine merchant business founded at the same time, which operates in the same spirit as the winery.

Founded in 1959 with just two hectares, Domaine Bernard Defaix now spans 27 hectares (certified organic since 2009), with its harvest supplemented by purchased grapes. Much of the production is fermented and aged in stainless steel, although the Chablis Vieilles Vignes and several of the premiers crus, as well as the Grand Cru Bougros and the Vaudésir, feature varying percentages of oak, most of which is used. The wines are lively and impactful, with good depth and concentration, and I found much to admire in the estate’s fine 2017 vintage. They deserve serious consideration.

Sylvain and Didier Defaix are at the helm of the family-owned Milly estate, whose vineyards are located on the left bank of the Serein River. Their premier crus, though slightly less well-known than those on the right bank, offer delightful surprises in warm vintages, particularly on the Côte de Léchet terroir. Thanks to skillful winemaking and aging on lees in tanks, the wines gain body and are protected from oxidation. The more common wines sourced from the wine merchant (Fourchaume premier cru and grands crus) simply bear the Bernard Defaix label, but are highly recommended. The entry-level wines offer remarkable value for the price, and the grands crus have improved: the estate is in good shape.

Here, too, the oak aging is pleasantly subtle, though noticeable in the ripe, layered aromas of candied citrus, poached pear, shellfish, and a hint of wet stone. Here, too, the medium-bodied, beautifully textured flavors display excellent volume, along with evident power and minerality on the sap-like, salty, and dry finish that lingers deceptively long. This wine is also well worth discovering. 2029+ / Top Value

Flavors of green fruit that are clearly intense enough to stand up to the oak. Good backbone. The structure is well-defined, but this wine should age very well and shouldn't cost a ridiculous amount. It isn't incredibly long, however. 2027–2040