Maison Verget - Pouilly-Fuissé Sur la Roche 2017

With a golden hue and a scent of fresh mushrooms, it reveals its full character and freshness. However, it takes time to open up.

The Verget wine merchant is part of the Guffens-Heynen “trilogy,” where Jean-Marie Guffens, supported by his loyal right-hand man Julien Desplans, applies the tried-and-true methods he has used on his elite estate since the 1980s—methods that serve as a global benchmark for Chardonnay. The Mâconnais region remains the flagship here, but the company regularly purchases wines from the Chablis region, and, depending on the vintage, there are some fine cuvées from the Côte de Beaune. Pre-release reservations are particularly wise, as they offer the opportunity to purchase “terroir-neutral” wines in screw-cap bottles—proof that terroir isn’t always the sole determinant of quality. Finally, it’s worth noting that this is the place to stock up on Guffens aux Tourettes and Verget du Sud—at unbeatable value—which are featured in the Rhône Valley section of this guide. An exemplary shop.

With a hint of chalk, the Vergisson rock reveals itself in the glass, with a creamy touch of oak. On the palate, the flavors unfold: a smooth, dry wine with an endless finish.

Jean-Marie Guffens has poured all his talent and high standards into this “haute couture” wine merchant, founded in 1990. Julien Desplans, a brilliant winemaker trained at Romanée-Conti, has been at the helm of Maison Verget since 2012. Named “Wine Merchant of the Year” by the RVF jury in 2020, the house is unanimously praised for its unparalleled winemaking, its highly discerning selection of grapes, and the precision of its pressing and aging processes. Let’s celebrate these 2019 vintages, a true testament to the house’s mastery.