Mas de Daumas Gassac blanc 2016

An elegant and complex nose, with notes of fresh almond, white fruit, sweet flowers, a hint of eucalyptus and hawthorn, and minerality; the palate is full-bodied and pleasing, with plenty of aromas and liveliness. Long, powerful, silky, refined, and fresh: superb.

Much has been written about the Daumas-Gassac estate. Aimé Guibert—who passed away in 2016—had identified high-quality terroirs in Aniane capable of producing a Cabernet Sauvignon not authorized by the local appellations. For his white wine, he also chose to produce a blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, and Petit Manseng, which likewise barred him from using the appellation. His estate therefore produces a red (an 80% blend of non-cloned Cabernet Sauvignon accompanied by about twenty other grape varieties, most of them rare) and a white (also a multi-varietal blend) under the Hérault IGP, which he has successfully positioned at a price point unprecedented in this category. The white is aged in stainless steel tanks, while the red is partially aged in barrels. Both the white and red wines exhibit unparalleled purity, precision, and complexity, and age remarkably well. The lineup is rounded out by pleasant IGP wines, designed to be enjoyed young. A sure bet in the region.

A fine example of the rise of Languedoc wines across five continents, this estate—founded in 1971 by Aimé and Véronique Guibert—caused a stir a few years ago by offering regional wines at the same price as top Bordeaux wines. It has, however, remained at the top of its game with wines of consistent quality and remarkable aging potential. Today, this leading estate is run by the founders’ sons.

Aimé Guibert was a leading figure in the revival of Languedoc’s wine industry and its rise to prominence first in France and then internationally, after purchasing his old farmhouse nestled along the banks of the Gassac River. He helped restore the potential of the limestone terroir of the Upper Gassac Valley—composed of glacial gravel—in the foothills of the Cévennes. The wide daily temperature range and the nature of the soils convinced him that this was a great terroir for Cabernet Sauvignon, which would be sourced from mass selection of the finest Bordeaux châteaux. Aimé’s sons—Samuel, Gaël, Roman, and Basile—now steer the estate’s future. Daumas Gassac has distinguished itself through its potential and longevity. Like the world’s great Cabernet Sauvignons, it is best enjoyed after at least a decade. While the estate’s legacy is immense and undeniable—and the quality of the reds is consistently high (even if the wines do not necessarily reflect the terroir)—we expect much more from the entire range.