Domaine Bonnet-Huteau - Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Cru Goulaine 2022

Jean-Jacques Bonnet and Vincent Pineau are the duo at the helm of this family-run estate, which is managed using biodynamic methods, with the goal of bringing out the best in the gneiss, mica schist, amphibolite, and granite soils. All the wines are increasingly expressing the terroirs, a superb achievement exemplified by the Goulaine communal cru, which is powerful and built for aging.

The Bonnet-Huteau family has been at the helm of the family estate for 150 years. Today, two passionate winemakers, Jean-Jacques Bonnet and Vincent Pineau, manage the 40-hectare property, which was certified biodynamic in 2010. Four terroirs are vinified separately to bring out their finest expression. At Les Dabinières—with its warm soil of gneiss and mica schist—the fruit expresses itself with roundness. On the amphibolite and mica schist of Les Gautronnières, the melon notes take on a mineral and taut character. The poor, granitic soils of Les Laures yield a denser, more complete wine. Produced in the finest vintages and aged for 18 months on lees (the minimum required), the Goulaine communal cru reveals depth and is well-suited for aging. While the wines are full of energy, we do have some reservations about the Medolia cuvée, whose aging in dolia seems to diminish its natural vitality.