Domaine La Casenove - Cuvée Commandant François Jaubert 2010

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

A former press photographer, Étienne Montès has taken over the family estates, Casenove and Saint-Luc. The La Garrigue and Torrespeyres vintages form the accessible core of the range. The Commandant-Jaubert vintage is produced only when the vintage is suitable. It is named after a sailor, Étienne’s great-great-uncle, who built the estate.

Guide Hachette des vins

About the wine:

Once a photojournalist at the Gamma agency, Étienne Montes eventually settled in Trouillas to carry on the family estate located in the foothills of the Aspres, southwest of Perpignan. He produces a diverse range of wines with distinct personalities, including this cuvée, which is no stranger to our readers. A pure Syrah named after an ancestor of the estate’s owner. The intense, almost black color shows a hint of aging in its highlights. The nose is concentrated and smoky, with notes of crushed red fruit and licorice, the latter remaining present and intense on the palate. Initially pleasantly supple, the palate then reveals powerful tannins on a rich, full-bodied structure, returning to the smoky aromas in the finish. A beautiful pairing in prospect with game, such as hare à la royale.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

This bold and vibrant expression of a pure Syrah—confident, dense, and rich with dark, candied notes of tar and resin, and an imposing alcoholic presence—is intended for lovers of sculptural, full-bodied wines.

About the estate:

Etienne Montès, a former renowned press photographer, has been at the helm of the family estate since the late 1980s. With his deep understanding of his terroirs and their potential, he produces a fine range of IGP Côtes Catalanes wines, ranging from simple, fruit-forward wines to full-bodied vintages—such as the highly acclaimed Commandant Jaubert. The VDNs are very serious in character but sometimes struggle to temper their warmth. The entire range is sincere and of good quality. Wine lovers will find beautiful, authentic wines here, capable of aging very well in the cellar. However, the wines are often heavy on alcohol, which detracts from their finesse and leads us to remove the estate’s star rating. A few technical and stylistic adjustments would likely suffice to refresh the style of these wines, whose depth of flavor is undeniable.