Camin Larredya - Les Grains de Copains 2017 (Moelleux)

A leading light in Jurançon, this estate—managed using organic and biodynamic farming methods—is the appellation’s undisputed star, embodied by its owner, Jean-Marc Grussaute. Its finest terraces even produce an exceptionally rich and subtle wine at a price that remains affordable. The entire range, whether dry or sweet, is of an admirable standard. The fifth star is truly not far off.

Complex nose with a hint of summer truffle; crisp attack marked by citrus, blood orange, and citron; precise, elegant acidity; a note of quince paste; a finish with notes of fresh quince; and a briny sparkle on the finish.

The death of his father brought Jean-Marc Grussaute back to the roots of his native Béarn, to the fledgling Jurançon vineyard, whose terraces had been reclaimed by the previous generation. At the time, the Camin Larredya estate produced strawberries; the grapes from its few rows of vines were taken to the cooperative. He completed his apprenticeship there while playing rugby for ten years with Section Paloise. He gave up rugby, switched to organic farming, and changed sides—as well as his network, contacts, and methods. In fact, he didn’t rely on any set methods, trusting instead to his instincts and to that little Manseng grape, the cornerstone of Jurançon’s history and future. He planted massal selections and refined his harvest timing, blends, and aging techniques. Following this same approach, he developed a passion for the great terroirs he spotted on maps: first the Clos Joliette, which he cultivated for a time with Nas’s “A Bisto” crew; then the Côte Blanche, his revelation. For this site, he tamed the slope and, in barely six years, demonstrated the exceptional quality of the terroir on the Dano-Montian limestones of Lasseube. In addition to his talent, the 2023 Winemaker of the Year possesses the determination that allows him to go where others shy away, thereby bringing renown to an entire region.