Camin Larredya - Les Grains de Copains 2017 (Moelleux)

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

A leading light of Jurançon, this estate—managed using organic and biodynamic farming methods—is the appellation’s undisputed star, embodied by its owner, Jean-Marc Grussaute. Its finest terraces even produce an exceptionally rich and subtle wine, yet at an affordable price. The entire range, whether dry or sweet, is of an admirable standard. The fifth star is truly not far off.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

Complex nose with a hint of summer truffle; crisp attack marked by citrus, blood orange, and citron; precise, elegant acidity; a note of quince paste; a finish with the freshness of quince; and a briny sparkle on the finish.

About the estate:

The death of his father brought Jean-Marc Grussaute back to the roots of his native Béarn, to the fledgling Jurançon vineyard, whose terraces had been reclaimed by the previous generation. At the time, the Camin Larredya estate was growing strawberries; the grapes from its few rows of vines were taken to the cooperative. He learned the trade there while playing rugby for ten years with Section Paloise. He gave up rugby, switched to organic farming, and changed sides, networks, partners, and methods. In fact, he uses none of them, relying instead on his instinct and that little Manseng grape, the foundation of Jurançon’s history and future. He planted massal selections, refining his harvest times, blends, and aging methods. Following this same logic, he became passionate about the great terroirs he spotted on maps: Clos Joliette first, which he worked for a time with Nas’s A Bisto crew; then the Côte Blanche, his revelation. For it, he tamed the slope and, in barely six years, proved the exceptional quality of the terroir on the Danomontian limestones of Lasseube. Beyond his talent, the 2023 Winemaker of the Year possesses the determination that allows him to go where others shy away, thereby bringing renown to an entire region.