Domaine Labruyère - Moulin-à-Vent Coeur de Terroirs 2018

Bettane & Desseauve

About the estate:

The Labruyère estate is one of the oldest in the Moulin-à-Vent appellation. In 1850, Jean-Marie Labruyère, a vineyard worker, settled in Les Thorins, a hamlet of Romanèche-Thorins. Since then, successive generations have managed the estate’s 10 hectares. During this period, the family acquired the appellation’s only single vineyard, the Clos du Moulin-à-Vent. In 2008, Édouard Labruyère took over the estate with the goal of elevating it to the ranks of the appellation’s leading producers. Under the guidance of winemaker Nadine Gublin (who also oversees the Jacques Prieur estate and JM Labruyère champagnes), the estate has reached new heights in recent vintages. The wines, which can be austere upon opening, demonstrate a depth and complexity that live up to the ambitions set forth a decade ago. Clos-du-Moulin-à-Vent holds its own, a superb success in 2017.

Guide Hachette des vins

About the wine:

With beautiful depth, this cuvée—whose 2015 vintage was named a Favorite unfolds a rich, intense bouquet of ripe black fruits and peony, intertwined with woody notes and hints of cocoa.

About the estate:

After making their fortune in the retail industry, the Labruyères invested in wine, purchasing shares in Dom. Jacques Prieur in Meursault in 1988. Since 2008, they have also reconnected with their Beaujolais roots: an ancestor had settled in Les Thorins in 1850, notably managing the renowned Clos du Moulin-à-Vent monopoly. Édouard Labruyère took over the estate, retaining only the finest plots. The vineyard now covers 14 hectares.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

Aromas of sweet berries, spices, smoked meats, and candied peel characterize the 2018 Moulin-à-Vent Cœur de Terroirs Vieilles Vignes, a medium- to full-bodied wine that is round and full-bodied, deep and succulent, with lively acidity and a generous core of fruit.

About the estate:

2018 is the finest vintage I have tasted to date from Domaine Labruyère. Not only was the Moulin-à-Vent finally spared from hail—which devastated the appellation in 2016 and 2017 —but the 2018s are the most integrated wines I have tasted from the estate to date, with their aging contributing a much more subtle aromatic and structural profile than was the case in the previous vintages I have encountered. The winemaking here is what is sometimes described as Burgundian: that is, the grapes are destemmed and macerated for 2 to 3 weeks in concrete tanks before aging in barrels and demi-muids.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

A lovely introduction that showcases the richness of the vintage and the character of the vineyard. Still lively, notes of blueberries and graphite stand out. It will be ready to drink in about two years.

About the estate:

The Labruyère family has owned this château since 1850. Jean-Pierre Labruyère, who also owns the Jacques Prieur estate in Meursault and Château Rouget in Pomerol, handed over the reins to his son Édouard in 2008. The winery has been modernized, and the estate expanded. In 2000, the Clos du Moulin-à-Vent was added to the vineyard holdings. Nadine Gublin is in charge of the cellar, and Michel Rovere oversees the vineyards. The so-called “Burgundian” winemaking method (destemming followed by barrel aging) produces wines with full yet smooth tannins that age beautifully.

Wine Enthusiast

About the wine:

This producer also owns vineyards in Burgundy and uses Burgundian aging techniques in Beaujolais. Made from grapes selected from various plots on the estate, this wine is richly textured and aromatic. The tannins are well integrated with the black fruit flavors. Enjoy this wine starting in 2022.