Domaine Labruyère - Le Clos du Moulin-à-Vent Monopole 2017
17/20
RVF
16,5/20
Bettane & Desseauve
93/100
Wine Enthusiast
90/100
Robert Parker
" The success of the vintage. Perfect harmony, with depth. Dense and complex on the palate. A beautiful wine. " (Le Guide des Vins Bettane & Desseauve) A wine of great purity, without artifice. The appellation's only monopole, this 92-acre plot is ideally located just below the Moulin, the emblem of the cru. On very hard and "arid" granite soil, this unique terroir produces an incomparable Gamay, offering wines with great aging potential.
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Eye
Beautiful intense ruby red color
Nose
Fine, elegant, slightly spicy, supported by floral notes (rose, violet), slightly minty and licorice, black fruits
Mouth
Dense and elegant with spicy notes and a hint of minerality. Licorice, leather, empyreumatic, mentholated. Refined, flavorful, and very mouthwatering tannins.
Serve
At 14-16°C
Apogee
2020-2030
Drink before
2030
Guard
Over 15 years
Food and wine pairings
Pairs well with oven-roasted Bresse turkey, veal tenderloin, rabbit with Dijon mustard sauce, or salted pork with lentils.
Bettane & Desseauve
Wine rated 16.5/20 (Reference wine)
Rated estate (2021 guide) 2 stars (A serious and recommendable production, but a little more consistent and uniform than the previous one)
About wine:
The success of the vintage. Perfect harmony, with depth. Dense and complex on the palate. A beautiful wine.
About the estate:
The Labruyère estate is one of the oldest in the Moulin-à-Vent appellation. In 1850, Jean-Marie Labruyère, a winegrower, settled in Les Thorins, a hamlet in Romanèche-Thorins. Since then, successive generations have managed the estate's 10 hectares. During this period, the family acquired the appellation's only clos, the Clos du Moulin-à-Vent. In 2008, Édouard Labruyère took over the estate with the aim of raising it to the top of the appellation. Under the expertise of oenologist Nadine Gublin (also in charge of the Jacques Prieur estate and JM Labruyère champagnes), the estate has taken on a new dimension in recent vintages. The wines, which can sometimes be austere when first opened, demonstrate a depth and complexity that lives up to the ambitions set out a decade ago. Clos-du-Moulin-à-Vent holds its own, with a superb success in 2017.
Guide Hachette des vins
Rated estate (2022 guide) Award-winning wines (This producer's wines are regularly recognized by the guide)
About the estate:
After making their fortune in retail, the Labruyères invested in wine, buying shares in Dom. Jacques Prieur in Meursault in 1988. Since 2008, they have also reconnected with their Beaujolais roots: an ancestor settled in Les Thorins in 1850, notably operating the renowned Clos du Moulin-à-Vent monopoly. Édouard Labruyère took over the property, keeping only the finest plots. The vineyard now covers 14 hectares.
Robert Parker - Wine Advocate
Wine rating (2019 guide) 90/100 (Outstanding wine)
Rated estate (2022 guide) Recommended (Wine producer recommended by Robert Parker - The Wine Advocate)
About wine:
The Moulin-à-Vent Le Clos du Moulin-à-Vent 2017 from Domaine Labruyère presents a rich bouquet of spices, berries, potpourri, and grilled meats, delicately framed by a touch of new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with powdery tannins and a rich, savory finish.
About the estate:
2018 is the finest vintage I have tasted to date from Domaine Labruyère. Not only was the Moulin-à-Vent finally spared by hail—which devastated the appellation in 2016 and 2017 — but the 2018s are the most integrated wines I have tasted from the estate to date, with their aging giving a much more discreet aromatic and structural contribution than was the case in previous vintages I have encountered. The winemaking at this estate is what is sometimes referred to as Burgundian: the grapes are destemmed and macerated for two to three weeks in concrete vats before being aged in barrels and demi-muids.
RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France
Wine rated (2020 guide) 17/20 (Great wine)
Rated estate (2022 guide) 1*Star (Up-and-coming stars or quality winemakers producing good-quality wines; you won't be disappointed when tasting the wines from these estates)
About wine:
With a delicate scent of water lilies, Le Clos du Moulin-à-Vent distills a pure mineral flavor that is easy to digest. A wine without artifice.
About the estate:
The Labruyère family has owned this château since 1850. Jean-Pierre Labruyère, who also owns the Jacques Prieur estate in Meursault and Château Rouget in Pomerol, handed over the reins to his son Édouard in 2008. The winery has been modernized and the estate expanded. In 2000, Clos du Moulin-à-Vent was added to the estate. Nadine Gublin is in charge of the cellar and Michel Rovere is in charge of the vineyards. The Burgundy-style vinification process (destemming followed by barrel aging) produces wines with full but smooth tannins that age beautifully.
Wine Enthusiast
Wine rated (2020 guide) 93/100
About wine:
This wine comes from a single vineyard under monopoly control, managed since 2008 by Édouard Labruyère. Blackberry fruit and a firm structure combine with ripe flavors, showcasing the richness of the tannins and the aging potential of this appellation. Ready to drink from 2021.