Domaine Labruyère - Moulin-à-Vent Le Carquelin 2018

The Labruyère estate is one of the oldest in the Moulin-à-Vent appellation. In 1850, Jean-Marie Labruyère, a vineyard worker, settled in Les Thorins, a hamlet of Romanèche-Thorins. Since then, successive generations have managed the estate’s 10 hectares. During this time, the family acquired the appellation’s only clos, the Clos du Moulin-à-Vent. In 2008, Édouard Labruyère took over the estate with the goal of establishing it as one of the appellation’s leading producers. Under the guidance of winemaker Nadine Gublin (who also oversees the Jacques Prieur estate and JM Labruyère champagnes), the estate has reached new heights in recent vintages. The wines, which can be austere upon first opening, reveal a depth and complexity that live up to the ambitions set forth a decade ago. Clos du Moulin-à-Vent holds its own, with a superb 2017 vintage.

Beautiful aromas of dried flowers, thyme, and damp earth, accompanied by notes of wild cherry and berries. Some reductive nuances. Aromas of slate and orange zest. Great liveliness and energy on the palate; a medium-bodied to full-bodied wine with fine, well-structured tannins. It will age beautifully but is already a real pleasure to drink. Enjoy now or lay it down.

After making their fortune in the retail industry, the Labruyères invested in wine, purchasing shares in Dom. Jacques Prieur in Meursault in 1988. Since 2008, they have also reconnected with their Beaujolais roots: an ancestor had settled in Les Thorins in 1850, managing, among other things, the renowned Clos du Moulin-à-Vent monopoly. Édouard Labruyère took over the estate, retaining only the finest plots. The vineyard now covers 14 hectares.

Intense aromas of red berries, spices, and smoked meat set the stage for the 2018 Moulin-à-Vent Le Carquelin, a medium-bodied to full-bodied wine that is rich and full-bodied, with a generous fruity core, lively acidity, and structured, velvety tannins. It has developed very well.

2018 is the finest vintage I’ve tasted to date from Domaine Labruyère. Not only was the Moulin-à-Vent finally spared from hail—which devastated the appellation in 2016 and 2017 —but the 2018s are the most integrated wines I’ve tasted from the estate to date; their aging has resulted in a much more subtle contribution to aroma and structure than was the case in the previous vintages I’ve encountered. The winemaking process here is what is sometimes referred to as “Burgundian-style”: that is, the grapes are destemmed and macerated for 2 to 3 weeks in concrete tanks before aging in barrels and demi-muids.

The aging process shapes the nose: mocha, Black Forest cake, blond tobacco… The palate is dense and robust, framed by wood that’s still present. But the graphite-like finish, reminiscent of peppermint, ensures it will age well.

The Labruyère family has owned this château since 1850. Jean-Pierre Labruyère, who also owns the Jacques Prieur estate in Meursault and Château Rouget in Pomerol, handed over the reins to his son Édouard in 2008. The winemaking facility has been modernized, and the estate expanded. In 2000, the Clos du Moulin-à-Vent was added to the vineyard holdings. Nadine Gublin is in charge of the cellar, and Michel Rovere oversees the vineyards. The “Burgundian” winemaking method (destemming followed by barrel aging) produces wines with full yet smooth tannins that age beautifully.

On the nose, aromas of tart cherries, cranberries, rhubarb, violets, and nutmeg. This is a medium-bodied wine with tight, silky tannins. It is well-structured and has a supple, creamy texture. The finish is complex, flavorful, and peppery. Enjoy now or lay it down.