Domaine Labruyère - Le Clos du Moulin-à-Vent Monopole 2017
17/20
RVF
16,5/20
Bettane & Desseauve
93/100
Wine Enthusiast
90/100
Robert Parker
“The success of the vintage. Perfect harmony, with depth. Dense and complex on the palate. A beautiful wine. ” (The Bettane & Desseauve Wine Guide) A wine of great purity, without artifice. As the appellation’s sole Monopole, this 92-are plot is ideally situated just below the Moulin, the cru’s iconic landmark. Grown on very hard and “arid” granite soil, this unique terroir produces an incomparable Gamay that yields wines with excellent aging potential.
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Eye
A beautiful, intense ruby-red color
Nose
Delicate, elegant, and slightly spicy, with floral notes (rose, violet), hints of mint and licorice, and black fruits
Palate
Rich and elegant, with spicy notes and a hint of minerality. Licorice, leather, smoky, and menthol. Refined, flavorful tannins that really make your mouth water.
Serve
At 14-16°C
Apogee
2020-2030
Drink before
2030
Guard
More than 15 years
Food and Wine Pairings
Pairs well with oven-roasted Bresse turkey, veal tenderloins, rabbit à la dijonnaise, and salted pork with lentils
Bettane & Desseauve
Wine rated 16.5/20 (Benchmark wine)
Rated estate (2021 guide): 2*Stars (A serious and recommendable production, though a bit more consistent and uniform than the previous one)
About the wine:
A successful vintage. Perfect harmony with depth. Dense and complex on the palate. A beautiful wine.
About the estate:
The Labruyère estate is one of the oldest in the Moulin-à-Vent appellation. In 1850, Jean-Marie Labruyère, a vineyard worker, settled in Les Thorins, a hamlet of Romanèche-Thorins. Since then, successive generations have managed the estate’s 10 hectares. During this time, the family acquired the appellation’s only single vineyard, the Clos du Moulin-à-Vent. In 2008, Édouard Labruyère took over the estate with the goal of establishing it as one of the appellation’s leading producers. Under the guidance of winemaker Nadine Gublin (who also oversees the Jacques Prieur estate and JM Labruyère champagnes), the estate has reached new heights in recent vintages. The wines, which can be austere upon first opening, reveal a depth and complexity that live up to the ambitions set forth a decade ago. Clos du Moulin-à-Vent holds its own, with a superb vintage in 2017.
Guide Hachette des vins
Rated estate (2022 guide) Award-winning wines (This producer's wines regularly receive awards from the guide)
About the estate:
After making their fortune in the retail industry, the Labruyères invested in wine, purchasing shares in Dom. Jacques Prieur in Meursault in 1988. Since 2008, they have also reconnected with their Beaujolais roots: an ancestor had settled in Les Thorins in 1850, where he managed, among other things, the renowned Clos du Moulin-à-Vent monopoly. Édouard Labruyère took over the estate, retaining only the finest plots. The vineyard now covers 14 hectares.
Robert Parker - Wine Advocate
Wine rated (2019 guide) 90/100 (Excellent wine)
Rated Estate (2022 Guide) Recommended (Wine producer recommended by Robert Parker - The Wine Advocate)
About the wine:
Domaine Labruyère’s 2017 Moulin-à-Vent Le Clos du Moulin-à-Vent offers a rich bouquet of spices, berries, potpourri, and grilled meats, delicately framed by a hint of new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with velvety tannins and a rich, savory finish.
About the estate:
2018 is the finest vintage I’ve tasted to date from Domaine Labruyère. Not only was the Moulin-à-Vent finally spared from hail—which devastated the appellation in 2016 and 2017 —but the 2018s are the most harmonious wines I’ve tasted from the estate to date, with their aging process contributing a much more subtle aromatic and structural profile than was the case in the previous vintages I’ve encountered. The winemaking process here is what is sometimes referred to as “Burgundian”: that is, the grapes are destemmed and macerated for 2 to 3 weeks in concrete tanks before aging in barrels and demi-muids.
RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France
Wine rated (2020 guide) 17/20 (Great wine)
Rated Estate (2022 Guide) 1*Star (Up-and-coming stars or high-quality winemakers producing wines of a high standard—you won’t be disappointed when you taste the wines from these estates)
About the wine:
With a subtle floral and watery aroma, Le Clos du Moulin-à-Vent offers a pure, mineral flavor that’s easy to drink. A wine without artifice.
About the estate:
The Labruyère family has owned this château since 1850. Jean-Pierre Labruyère, who also owns the Jacques Prieur estate in Meursault and Château Rouget in Pomerol, handed over the reins to his son Édouard in 2008. The winemaking facility has been modernized, and the estate expanded. In 2000, the Clos du Moulin-à-Vent was added to the vineyard holdings. Nadine Gublin is in charge of the cellar, and Michel Rovere oversees the vineyards. The “Burgundian” winemaking method (destemming followed by barrel aging) produces wines with full yet smooth tannins that age beautifully.
Wine Enthusiast
Wine rated (2020 guide) 93/100
About the wine:
This wine comes from a single vineyard under exclusive ownership, managed since 2008 by Édouard Labruyère. Blackberry fruit and a firm structure combine with ripe flavors, showcasing the richness of the tannins and this appellation’s aging potential. Best enjoyed starting in 2021.
Customer Rating
4/5
based on 3 reviews
Review and opinion by Mr. BERNARD L. Published on October 30, 2022
You have to be patient, but this very full-bodied wine, with notes of candied cherries and blackberries, is a great bottle.
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Review by Mr. PASCAL D. Published on September 22, 2024
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Review by Mr. STEVE G. Posted on October 18, 2022
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