Château d'Issan Margaux 2020 - 3ème Grand Cru Classé (magnum)

Half of the estate is owned by the Cruse family and the other half by Jacky Lorenzetti, who obviously have great ambitions for it. Surrounded by walls, the approximately 50-hectare vineyard is situated on a first-class terroir, which explains the wine’s remarkable aromatic finesse and its consistency despite the frequent climatic vagaries of recent vintages. With even greater rigor in its selection process, it could rival—though without a distinct character—its prestigious neighbor, Palmer.

The nose is wonderfully intense, ripe, and concentrated, with aromas of toasted oak. Supple and vibrant on the palate, the fruit is crisp and fresh, with fine yet firm tannins that lend the wine a touch of tension and linearity. Cinnamon and clove frame the brilliant fruit of blackcurrant and black cherry, with lovely acidity. This wine is at once rich and firm, crisp and clear, fragrant and ripe. There’s a lot going on here, including notes of dark, bitter chocolate. Everything is coming together. It needs time to open up, but it’s wonderfully nuanced and truly captivating. Striking and refreshing, it leaves a lasting impression. 2028–2044

With a medieval fortified castle on one side and a 17th-century manor house on the other, this classified growth blends styles and eras with true harmony—a harmony that is reflected in the winery and its ship’s hull-shaped roof structure. At the helm since 1945, the Cruse family—in partnership since 2013 with Jacky Lorenzetti, who is already well-established in the Médoc—manages a 55-hectare vineyard planted on a beautiful clay-gravel terroir in the heart of the appellation.

With an opaque black-purple color, it offers vibrant notes of Bing cherry, Boysenberry, ripe red currant, and juicy black plum, along with hints of pencil shavings, wild thyme, lavender, and forest floor. The medium-bodied palate displays impressive energy with crisp red and black fruits and irresistible tension, framed by fine-grained tannins, and concludes with a long, mineral finish. 2025–2045

In addition to a magnificent château, Issan boasts one of the few historic vineyards that has not been consolidated, ideally situated on the banks of the Gironde and enclosed within a magnificent vineyard enclosure. Thanks to the work of Emmanuel Cruse and his team, the wines have gained in body, intensity, and depth in recent years, while retaining a very silky texture. They are now among the appellation’s finest.

Extremely floral and fruity, with notes of red currants and blackberries. It is full-bodied and very layered, with a delicious, dense character. Full-bodied with fine-grained, structured tannins. Rich, but not heavy. A long, chewy finish.

A bouquet of summer fruits that, as it rises to your nose, makes you feel as if you’re lying on a blanket in the middle of a field of wild grasses, caressed by the gentle warmth of the spring sun. On the palate, this is a sublime, finely crafted, and luscious wine, with a mouthwatering crispness and perfectly lively tannins that leave a slightly chalky finish lingering on the palate. 2028–2048

The freshness of vegetal nuances, notes of blond tobacco, blackcurrant, earthy undertones, and sweet spices. Here is a summary—which can, of course, be expanded upon—of Issan’s bouquet. “Vegetal” because we must finally embrace this natural and apt term in a positive light. Of course, it stirs up some controversy, but it smells wonderful… isn’t that what matters most? Add to that the sweetness on the palate, a certain density, an acidic structure that enhances the finish, and silky tannins… and you get this very elegant, refined, and compelling Margaux. They didn’t set out to be charming, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t; in the end, it’s the freshness that wins the day. Bravo! 2026–2045

A deep, intense, beautiful purple color. The nose is highly aromatic, refined, subtle, and fragrant, with pure, ripe fruit. Ultra-smooth on the attack, delicious and dense on the mid-palate, and particularly aromatic, the wine caresses the palate with its velvety, flavorful texture. It finishes long, delicately structured with dreamy tannins. 2027–2045

The nose is elegant and refined, offering delicacy, power (expressed with precision and control), concentration, and complexity. It reveals notes of ripe and fresh red berries, juicy strawberries, and, more subtly, violet and blackcurrant, combined with hints of camphor, juicy and ripe black berries, fresh tobacco, fresh licorice, subtle hints of saffron, cherry blossoms, as well as subtle hints of nutmeg, spices, and a discreet hint of Bourbon vanilla. On the palate, it is fruity and well-balanced, offering juiciness, freshness, vibrant fruit, minerality, good definition, a certain richness, a tangy structure, an airy character (in its palate profile), juiciness, controlled richness, a certain power, and a finely structured, relatively powerful tannic framework. On the palate, this wine expresses notes of juicy, pulpy blackcurrant, vibrant raspberry, and, to a lesser extent, ripe,fresh, combined with hints of lily, saffron, vibrant cherry, black tea, and licorice, as well as subtle hints of sweet spices, refined minerality, subtle notes of blond tobacco, and an imperceptible hint of pepper (in the background). The tannins are precise, finely structured, and offer a touch of firmness.

The first vintage to include five Bordeaux grape varieties in the blend opens with aromas of violet, forest floor, spices, plum, red currant, cherry, mint, and a hint of pepper. On the palate, the vibrant red fruits, silky tannins, and the fruit’s smoothness and purity are easy to discern. The elegant finish is lingering—which is a good thing, because you’ll finish the bottle far too quickly. Tasting the 2015, 2016, 2018, 2019, and now the 2020 over the years will be a lot of fun. But I warn you, it will be hard to pick a favorite. However, right now, it’s quite possible that the 2020—thanks to the inclusion of new grape sources—is the top of the class. Drink between 2025 and 2055.