Château La Gaffelière - Saint-Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classé 2020

Ideally located on the hillside that extends from Ausone and leads to Belair-Monange, La Gaffelière has undergone a gentle revolution over the past decade: on half of its 22 hectares, under the guidance of Alexandre Malet-Roquefort (whose family has been in Saint-Émilion since the 15th century), the vineyard’s grape varieties have been optimally repositioned. Merlot vines have been uprooted and replaced with Cabernet Franc, which now extends from the sandy soils up the hillside. Its proportion in the blend has increased, reaching up to 40% of the final blend. The results are compelling, yielding wines that are more complex and floral, while preserving the fruit and freshness.

This vineyard, which takes its name from a medieval leper hospital (“gaffet”), is located just outside the southern entrance to Saint-Émilion, between Ausone Hill and Pavie Hill. Here, time is measured not in years but in centuries: the remains of a Gallo-Roman villa believed to have belonged to the poet Ausonius have been found here. The Malet Roquefort family (now Count Léo de Malet Roquefort) has been established here since the 17th century. On a single, contiguous 22-hectare clay-limestone vineyard planted with Merlot (80%) and Cabernet Franc, a Premier Grand Cru Classé B is produced; since 2013, it has been crafted in fully renovated winemaking facilities.

The wine’s aristocratic beauty is underpinned by pronounced structure, a taut texture, and perfect proportions. It is precise, intense, and invigorating, coming together in a finish that is more cheerful than the austerity of the opening.

Alongside a major restructuring of the vineyard—led by the Derenoncourt team (which involved uprooting and replanting 5 hectares of Cabernet Franc on the magnificent limestone slopes south of the village)—Alexandre de Malet, now at the helm, has invested heavily in the technical overhaul of the winemaking facility. Following investments in plantings since 2000 and an upgrade of cultivation equipment, La Gaffelière’s production facilities now rank among the elite of the First Growths. Eventually, 80% of the estate’s flagship wine will come from the hillside vineyards (under Belair), leaving the lower slopes—generous but less refined—to the second wine, Clos La Gaffelière. In the 1970s and 1980s, La Gaffelière did not always produce a wine worthy of its standing. The worst of that period is now well behind us, and, as fate would have it, the de Malet Roquefort family has just purchased Château Puy-Blanquet, 20 hectares (19 of which are in production) in Saint-Étienne-de-Lisse, on a clay-limestone ridge overlooking the Dordogne, which they had sold to the Jacquet family in the 1960s for inheritance reasons. Embodying a classic yet expressive style, without excess, built on the finesse of the wine’s mid-palate, this first growth—with its exceptional topography—continues to surprise, especially since its prices remain reasonable. Here, we find ourselves at the heart of what is most sensual and unique in Saint-Émilion!

The 2020 Gaffelière is superb. Rich, dense, and explosive. Notes of black cherry, gravel, licorice, toasted herbs, and menthol waft from the glass. Deep, supple, and explosive, the 2020 is magnificent. At this stage, it’s still youthful, but that won’t be a problem in a few years. This lively and majestic Saint-Émilion is simply exhilarating. 2028–2060

Deep, intense notes of plum and blackberry, enhanced by dark chocolate, toasted spices, walnut, crushed graphite, and wet stones. Full-bodied, it features ripe, velvety tannins that flow in a single, firm layer across the palate. Very well-structured. Delicious black and blue fruits coated in chocolate, with a spicy character and a very long finish. 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc. Best enjoyed starting in 2028.

La Gaffelière stands out beautifully among the vintage’s successes, revealing from the very first whiff a lovely burst of black fruit, framed by heady floral notes. The creamy mouthfeel, supported by a solid limestone foundation and exceptionally refined tannins, confirms the growing precision of this Premier Grand Cru Classé. The finish is heady, with fruit notes reminiscent of brandy.

What energy and complexity in the 2020 Gaffelière! The wine stands out for its vigor, but also for its finesse and its ability to turn the vintage’s challenges into strengths. Juicy in character, it boasts a lively and incisive acidity, while its perfectly integrated tannins lend it power. This Gaffelière strikes me as very well-rounded, impressive, and capable of aging beautifully for decades to come. The shift that began in 2017 proved decisive; La Gaffelière has surpassed its former glory, cementing its place among the elite of Saint-Emilion. I’m just saying! A truly remarkable success whose evolution is worth following. 2026–2055