Château d'Yquem 2017 - 1er Cru Classé Supérieur

As miraculous as ever in its aromatic richness, purity of texture and flavor, vibrancy, and freshness. It’s hard to imagine anything greater.

Yquem enjoys a unique status in Bordeaux winemaking, which places it virtually beyond any critical judgment. The approximately 100 hectares under cultivation are divided between Sémillon and Sauvignon, on gravelly hilltops with a more clay-rich subsoil. The estate does not produce small or even average vintages, as it tolerates no compromise. In fact, it chose not to produce the 2012 vintage, as the quality was not deemed high enough for the estate. The LVMH Group (which took it over in 1999 under the leadership of Pierre Lurton, who arrived in 2004), just like the Lur-Saluces family before them (now at Château de Fargues), cannot even imagine taking the easy way out! Yquem deserves its status as the “First among the First” wines of Sauternes more than ever. The inclusion of Sauvignon Blanc in the blends, the flexibility in adapting the aging process to the nature of each vintage, and, of course, a unique agronomic expertise make each vintage an even more refined and balanced celebration than in previous decades, satisfying both our senses and our intellect.

A magnificent 17th-century fortified manor surrounded by vineyards, perched atop the hillsides overlooking the Garonne Valley, Château d’Yquem is—uniquely among grand cru estates—has remained in the same family, first the Sauvages and then the Lur-Saluces, for nearly four hundred years. The estate became the jewel of the Sauternes region as early as the 18th century. In addition to its stability, it benefits from a highly varied and nuanced terroir, composed of a multitude of small hills, with vineyards at the top of the plateau and others midway down and at the bottom of the slopes. This diversity allows the estate to adapt to the vagaries of the climate and is what gives Yquem wine its great complexity. Classified as a Premier Cru Supérieur in 1855—the only one in its category—it has belonged to the LVMH Group since 1999, which entrusted its management to Pierre Lurton in 2004. The transition to organic farming began in 2019.

There was no frost at d'Yquem in 2017, and the botrytis development was very consistent and even across this vintage. The nose opens with very pure notes of freshly sliced oranges, yuzu, and lemony barley water, along with hints of white pepper, fresh ginger, and lime syrup. The incredibly rich and creamy sweetness (148 grams per liter of residual sugar) is beautifully interwoven with vibrant citrus and spice flavors, while being enlivened by a well-integrated freshness, and it finishes with epic length and great depth.

 

On the nose, it exudes a sense of strength. Vivid and luminous, its striking character awakens the senses with its power—a dense, savory sweet wine that sweeps you away like a cyclone, yet one you’ll want to drink right away without waiting for it to age. Masterful.

Recognized as the world’s most famous sweet wine, Yquem has been owned since 1999 by the LVMH Group, led by businessman Bernard Arnault. The château is now led by Pierre Lurton, who also heads Château Cheval Blanc in Saint-Émilion. Before him, from 1967 to 2004, Alexandre de Lur Saluces wrote some of the finest chapters in the history of the only wine classified as “Premier Cru Classé Supérieur” in 1855, following in the footsteps of his ancestors. For this wine is perhaps the most consistent in the Bordeaux region over the past hundred years. Even in modest vintages and difficult periods, Yquem has maintained its standing, particularly through its incomparable aging potential. It owes this to a unique terroir, which responds to the development of botrytis like no other, and to the people who have understood and brought out its qualities. While Yquem may not necessarily impress in its youth, it irrevocably pulls ahead of its neighbors after a few years of aging. Tasting an old vintage from the château remains an experience that every lover of sweet wine must have had at least once in their life.

This is a great Yquem, with thrilling purity and intensity. The nose offers intense aromas of fresh and dried apricots and baked peach, as well as freshly baked crème brûlée, candied and fresh orange, and kumquat. There’s also marmalade. The texture is smooth and brilliant, with flavors of toasted orange and dried apricot, and an exceptionally long finish with a powerful, driving surge right to the end. A hint of toasted oak emerges late, but this wine has fully integrated the oak. The 2017 Yquem is a very powerful wine from a very rich and exceptional vintage. Acidity plays a major role in balancing the richness. The finish is zesty. The phenolic compounds offer great depth. The rains in early September led to a significant outbreak of noble rot. The harvest lasted from September 26 to October 13. Exceptional quality and one of the best vintages since the legendary 2001.