Château d'Yquem Sauternes 2023 - 1er Cru Classé Supérieur

Yquem enjoys a unique status in Bordeaux winemaking, which places it virtually beyond any critical judgment. The approximately 100 hectares under cultivation are divided between Sémillon and Sauvignon, on gravelly hilltops with a more clay-rich subsoil. The estate does not produce small or even average vintages, as it tolerates no compromise. In fact, it chose not to produce the 2012 vintage, as the quality was not deemed high enough for the estate. The LVMH Group (which took it over in 1999 under the leadership of Pierre Lurton, who arrived in 2004), just like the Lur-Saluces family before them (now at Château de Fargues), cannot even imagine taking the easy way out! Yquem deserves its status as the “First among the First” wines of Sauternes more than ever. The inclusion of Sauvignon Blanc in the blends, the flexibility in adapting the aging process to the nature of each vintage, and, of course, a unique agronomic expertise make each vintage an even more refined and balanced celebration than in previous decades, satisfying both our senses and our intellect.

A magnificent 17th-century fortified manor surrounded by vineyards, perched atop the hillsides overlooking the Garonne Valley, Château d’Yquem is—uniquely among grand cru estates—has remained in the same family, first the Sauvages and then the Lur-Saluces, for nearly four hundred years. The estate became the jewel of the Sauternes region as early as the 18th century. In addition to its stability, it benefits from a highly varied and nuanced terroir, composed of a multitude of small hills, with vineyards at the top of the plateau and others midway down and at the bottom of the slopes. This diversity allows the estate to adapt to the vagaries of the climate and is what gives Yquem wine its great complexity. Classified as a Premier Cru Supérieur in 1855—the only one in its category—it has belonged to the LVMH Group since 1999, which entrusted its management to Pierre Lurton in 2004. The transition to organic farming began in 2019.

With 153 grams of residual sugar per liter—placing it among the 10 most concentrated vintages in the château’s history—the 2023 Yquem ranks among the finest wines bottled under Lorenzo Pasquini’s leadership. It opens with a complex, vibrant bouquet of remarkable purity, blending pineapple, guava, mango, candied citrus, beeswax, and spices. Full-bodied, dense, and concentrated, it combines tremendous depth with perfect balance, centered around a heart of lush fruit, framed by lively acidity and a crystalline texture, and culminating in an endless, refined, and ethereal finish. Yquem’s natural power is masterfully enhanced here by the vintage’s freshness and tension, revealing a precision and liveliness found only in the estate’s greatest vintages—a result made all the more remarkable by the fact that the château now achieves even higher levels of concentration than it did a decade ago, without any perceptible increase in sweetness on the palate. 2026–2076

 

Recognized as the world’s most famous sweet wine, Yquem has been owned since 1999 by the LVMH Group, led by businessman Bernard Arnault. The château is now led by Pierre Lurton, who also heads Château Cheval Blanc in Saint-Émilion. Before him, from 1967 to 2004, Alexandre de Lur Saluces wrote some of the finest chapters in the history of the only wine classified as “Premier Cru Classé Supérieur” in 1855, following in the footsteps of his ancestors. For this wine is perhaps the most consistent in the Bordeaux region over the past hundred years. Even in modest vintages and difficult periods, Yquem has maintained its standing, particularly through its incomparable aging potential. It owes this to a unique terroir, which responds to the development of botrytis like no other, and to the people who have understood and brought out its qualities. While Yquem may not necessarily impress in its youth, it irrevocably pulls ahead of its neighbors after a few years of aging. Tasting an old vintage from the château remains an experience that every lover of sweet wine must have had at least once in their life.

The 2023 Yquem, a blend of 70% Sémillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, contains 154 grams of residual sugar per liter—less than the 2022 vintage. As always, the 2023 was aged in 100% new oak barrels, primarily French, with a small proportion from Austria.  Its nose is so seductive that it should come with a warning label. Pure and mellow, it offers captivating aromas of wild honey, quince jelly, slivered almonds, and that signature hint of saffron that will intensify with age. While beautifully defined, it lacks the aromatic intensity of the previous vintage. The palate reveals exquisite balance and harmony that conceal the depth of this Yquem, though it is less exuberant and less ostentatious than the 2022. It is truly the umami sensation that characterizes the 2023—the way it caresses, almost soothes, the taste buds, with notes of vanilla and white chocolate that linger on the finish. It will likely reach its peak slightly earlier than the 2022. If the 2023 has a flaw, it is that it is so pleasing in its youth that it will be hard to resist. Sublime. 2030–2090

Perfect aromas unfold in every milliliter of this wine, revealing intense notes of orange peel, honey, caramel, saffron, smoke, and peat, with hints of coffee and dried apples. Full-bodied yet light and silky in texture, it offers an excellent balance of fruit, sweetness, and spice. The finish features notes of nougatine, dried oranges, and dried lemons. I’m already won over by its wonderful current quality, but it has exceptional aging potential. 154 g/L of residual sugar. Ready to drink or for aging.