Château d'Yquem Sauternes 2019 - 1er Cru Classé Supérieur

Yquem enjoys a unique status in Bordeaux winemaking, which places it virtually beyond any critical judgment. The approximately 100 hectares under cultivation are divided between Sémillon and Sauvignon, on gravelly hilltops with a more clay-rich subsoil. The estate does not produce small or even average vintages, as it tolerates no compromise. In fact, it chose not to produce the 2012 vintage, as the quality was not deemed high enough for the estate. The LVMH Group (which took it over in 1999 under the leadership of Pierre Lurton, who arrived in 2004), just like the Lur-Saluces family before them (now at Château de Fargues), cannot even imagine taking the easy way out! Yquem deserves its status as the “First among the First” wines of Sauternes more than ever. The inclusion of Sauvignon Blanc in the blends, the flexibility in adapting the aging process to the nature of each vintage, and, of course, a unique agronomic expertise make each vintage an even more refined and balanced celebration than in previous decades, satisfying both our senses and our intellect.

The 2019 Château d'Yquem contains the highest proportion (45%) of Sauvignon Blanc of any modern Yquem. The Sauvignon Blanc adds freshness, providing an excellent balance to the succulent, sweet, and voluptuous palate. Intense notes of peach and apricot, combined with lemon and orange zest, make this wine very appealing to drink right away—an ideal vintage to kick off Yquem’s “flagship” project. However, it would be a shame not to let it age for at least 10 years to see how it evolves. Very good, I think. The growing season was both hot and humid, with downy mildew posing a major threat. After a fairly dry September, 40 mm of rain fell at the end of the month, resulting in a very short harvest window. All of Yquem’s grapes were picked in two passes over the course of a week. Residual sugar: 138 g/L. 2025–2060

2019: a very hot and dry year, with heavy rains in late July that replenished soil moisture reserves and accelerated berry ripening. Then the heat returned, with temperatures above seasonal norms and very little rain; Botrytis was slow to take hold: it wasn’t until the rains in late September that noble rot began to develop, followed by ideal high-pressure conditions in early October. A narrow “harvest window” opened up between October 10 and 22, with only five days of harvesting on the healthiest plots. In the glass, this Sauternes features an exceptionally high proportion of Sauvignon (45%), which likely explains the admirable freshness emanating from its aromas of bitter orange, mandarin zest, exotic fruits, verbena, and menthol. A full-bodied and smooth attack leads to a palate that is certainly very rich, yet supported by the superb freshness detected on the nose and a long, well-defined finish with notes of pepper and ginger. A highly expressive, vibrant Yquem with absolute balance. 2030–2050

A magnificent 17th-century fortified manor surrounded by vineyards, perched atop the hillsides overlooking the Garonne Valley, Château d’Yquem is—uniquely among grand cru estates—has remained in the same family, first the Sauvages and then the Lur-Saluces, for nearly four hundred years. The estate became the jewel of the Sauternes region as early as the 18th century. In addition to its stability, it benefits from a highly varied and nuanced terroir, composed of a multitude of small hills, with vineyards at the top of the plateau and others midway down and at the bottom of the slopes. This diversity allows the estate to adapt to the vagaries of the climate and is what gives Yquem wine its great complexity. Classified as a Premier Cru Supérieur in 1855—the only one in its category—it has belonged to the LVMH Group since 1999, which entrusted its management to Pierre Lurton in 2004. The transition to organic farming began in 2019.

 

Recognized as the world’s most famous sweet wine, Yquem has been owned since 1999 by the LVMH Group, led by businessman Bernard Arnault. The château is now led by Pierre Lurton, who also heads Château Cheval Blanc in Saint-Émilion. Before him, from 1967 to 2004, Alexandre de Lur Saluces wrote some of the finest chapters in the history of the only wine classified as “Premier Cru Classé Supérieur” in 1855, following in the footsteps of his ancestors. For this wine is perhaps the most consistent in the Bordeaux region over the past hundred years. Even in modest vintages and difficult periods, Yquem has maintained its standing, particularly through its incomparable aging potential. It owes this to a unique terroir, which responds to the development of botrytis like no other, and to the people who have understood and brought out its qualities. While Yquem may not necessarily impress in its youth, it irrevocably pulls ahead of its neighbors after a few years of aging. Tasting an old vintage from the château remains an experience that every lover of sweet wine must have had at least once in their life.

At 45%, the 2019 Yquem has the highest proportion of Sauvignon Blanc in the château’s history! In the Sauternes region, the hot, dry weather in September certainly allowed for a significant increase in concentration in the berries during that month, but it wasn’t until early October that the rains favorable to the development of Botrytis arrived—though its spread was very slow. Ultimately, the harvest window was very short, taking place between October 7 (a few Sauvignon plots) and October 13. The wine was aged in 100% new barrels for 21 months. It has 138 grams of residual sugar and a total acidity of 4.5. The bouquet has lovely complexity that unfolds gradually. It reveals nuances of basil, mint, Ricola cough drops, and white pepper. Upon aeration, aromas of orange blossom and pineapple emerge. The wine has body and density, along with a pleasant and refreshing liveliness, despite lower-than-usual acidity. This is a Yquem that can be enjoyed even in its youth, though this in no way detracts from its aging potential. 2026–2059

Pale yellow in color. The nose is intense, refined, subtle, complex, deep, and noble. This splendid aromatic profile remains difficult to describe. The palate opens onto a world of ethereal subtleties. Highly complex, silky, and crystalline, the wine melts on the palate before offering, in the finish—oh, what a surprise—the toasty nobility of candied grapes. Impossible to spit out. Blend: 45% Sauvignon Blanc and 55% Sémillon. Residual sugar: 138 g/L. pH: 3.90. This wine comes from a low yield of 10 hl/ha. Selection: 50% of the harvest. This is the second vintage after 2013 to feature such a high proportion of Sauvignon in the blend. Harvested over 7 days.

Pale yellow and golden in color, the wine makes a striking impression on the nose with its spectacular array of floral notes, honeysuckle, candied apricots, orange zest, pineapple, mango, lemongrass, vanilla, and spices. Striking a balance between richness, sweetness, and acidity, the wine is opulent, fresh, smooth, rich, and, above all, lively, resulting in a finish that is both optimistic and refined. Because this wine has so much energy and vibrancy, it pairs easily with a wide variety of cuisines. You can enjoy it young, without much aging—or even without aging at all—for its sweetness and exuberance. You can also age it to appreciate its secondary characteristics and nuances. A blend of 55% Sémillon and 45% Sauvignon Blanc, the 2019 vintage features the highest percentage of Sauvignon Blanc ever used in a d’Yquem. There is more Sauvignon Blanc this year due to the shorter harvest window. But as you’ll see when reading my notes or tasting the wine, it works really well here! Best enjoyed between 2025 and 2075.