Château d'Yquem Sauternes 2010 - 1er Cru Classé Supérieur (37,5cl)

Slightly more austere than the 2011 but with incomparable aromatic elegance, and still featuring that perfect body and ideal balance.

Yquem enjoys a unique status in Bordeaux winemaking, which places it virtually beyond any critical judgment. The approximately 100 hectares under cultivation are divided between Sémillon and Sauvignon, on gravelly hilltops with a more clay-rich subsoil. The estate does not produce small or even average vintages, as it tolerates no compromise. In fact, it chose not to produce the 2012 vintage, as the quality was not deemed high enough for the estate. The LVMH Group (which took it over in 1999 under the leadership of Pierre Lurton, who arrived in 2004), just like the Lur-Saluces family before them (now at Château de Fargues), cannot even imagine taking the easy way out! Yquem deserves its status as the “First among the First” wines of Sauternes more than ever. The inclusion of Sauvignon Blanc in the blends, the flexibility in adapting the aging process to the nature of each vintage, and, of course, a unique agronomic expertise make each vintage an even more refined and balanced celebration than in previous decades, satisfying both our senses and our intellect.

At Yquem, more than anywhere else, the precision of the harvest is what makes the wine great. The first sorting took place from September 20 to 22, followed by a second, more thorough round from September 27 to 30. Then came a long hiatus, forced by the early-fall drought. Harvesting resumed on October 14, after the return of rains necessary for the development of noble botrytis, followed by sunshine and easterly winds that perfectly concentrated the sugar in the berries. This marked the true beginning of the vintage. Another pause on October 18, as the forecast called for rain on the 24th. Francis Mayeur, the estate’s technical director, decided to wait three days to allow the berries from the best plots to reach maximum concentration. There was no question of “averaging out the harvest” in this opulent and bountiful year; on the contrary, the idea was to differentiate between the plots, with “tailored” sorting—resulting in up to seven or eight lots depending on the terroir—and thus secure a precise and diverse range of botrytized grapes at their peak. A new phase of sorting began before the rains on October 21 and lasted three days: the peak of the harvest and the heart of the future 2010 vintage. It therefore required juggling the weather, owning a vineyard large enough to allow for meticulous work, and being willing to take risks. Thanks to this, Sandrine Garbay, the estate’s winemaker, was able to craft a wine of great classicism—undoubtedly one of the most accomplished of this decade. A bouquet as subtle as it is complex—yellow fruits, candied orange, lemon zest, brioche, and a hint of vanilla—is complemented by a palate of extreme elegance and a balance bordering on perfection. The attack is soft and full-bodied, the development silky and delicate, offering a very refined texture and—the hallmark of this vintage—a remarkable freshness that lends the wine an ethereal quality and infinite length. A prima ballerina.

A magnificent 17th-century fortified manor surrounded by vineyards, perched atop the hillsides overlooking the Garonne Valley, Château d’Yquem is—uniquely among grand cru estates—has remained in the same family, first the Sauvages and then the Lur-Saluces, for nearly four hundred years. The estate became the jewel of the Sauternes region as early as the 18th century. In addition to its stability, it benefits from a highly varied and nuanced terroir, composed of a multitude of small hills, with vineyards at the top of the plateau and others midway down and at the bottom of the slopes. This diversity allows the estate to adapt to the vagaries of the climate and is what gives Yquem wine its great complexity. Classified as a Premier Cru Supérieur in 1855—the only one in its category—it has belonged to the LVMH Group since 1999, which entrusted its management to Pierre Lurton in 2004. The transition to organic farming began in 2019.

 

Recognized as the world’s most famous sweet wine, Yquem has been owned since 1999 by the LVMH Group, led by businessman Bernard Arnault. The château is now led by Pierre Lurton, who also heads Château Cheval Blanc in Saint-Émilion. Before him, from 1967 to 2004, Alexandre de Lur Saluces wrote some of the finest chapters in the history of the only wine classified as “Premier Cru Classé Supérieur” in 1855, following in the footsteps of his ancestors. For this wine is perhaps the most consistent in the Bordeaux region over the past hundred years. Even in modest vintages and difficult periods, Yquem has maintained its standing, particularly through its incomparable aging potential. It owes this to a unique terroir, which responds to the development of botrytis like no other, and to the people who have understood and brought out its qualities. While Yquem may not necessarily impress in its youth, it irrevocably pulls ahead of its neighbors after a few years of aging. Tasting an old vintage from the château remains an experience that every lover of sweet wine must have had at least once in their life.

The purity of the Botrytis in this wine is impressive, with dried fruit notes such as apple and mango. It then reveals a spicy character. The wine is full-bodied and very sweet, yet it is incredibly fresh and lively. Such class and elegance. A perfectly crafted wine. Everything is in its place. It displays a captivating delicacy and intensity.

An inviting, complex bouquet marked by notes of candied lemon, bitter orange, quince, and saffron. An earthy touch with a hint of celery, as well as aromas that remind me of salted caramel. On the palate, the wine is youthful. All the elements are present, both in terms of structure and sweetness. It offers fullness, richness, tension, and savory depth. Nevertheless, it needs time—a near-constant at Yquem. You’ll need to be patient; there’s really no need to rush. 2024–2070

Golden yellow in color. The nose is intense, refined, subtle, elegant, fresh, and complex. A hint of warm butter emerges as it breathes in the glass. Meticulously crafted on the attack, light and airy on the mid-palate, and particularly aromatic, rich, and velvety, the wine gains incredible energy between the mid-palate and the finish. It ends with a finish that’s impossible to spit out and is very good. It’s superb.

The nose is fruity, elegant, and fresh. It reveals subtle notes of candied lemon and hints of honey, combined with delicate hints of quince, persimmon, and stewed white fruits (nectarine, pear), as well as subtle hints of pastries, brioche, and gingerbread. On the palate, it is fruity, refined, and balanced, offering a lovely, subtle mineral structure, excellent balance, and beautiful finesse and delicacy. On the palate, this wine expresses subtle notes of lemon, stewed white fruits (nectarine, pear), and delicate hints of quince, combined with a subtle touch of spices, cardamom, and green tea. It has good length and a lovely finish.