Château d'Yquem Sauternes 2022 - 1er Cru Classé Supérieur

Yquem enjoys a unique status in Bordeaux winemaking, which places it virtually beyond any critical judgment. The approximately 100 hectares under cultivation are divided between Sémillon and Sauvignon, on gravelly hilltops with a more clay-rich subsoil. The estate does not produce small or even average vintages, as it tolerates no compromise. In fact, it chose not to produce the 2012 vintage, as the quality was not deemed high enough for the estate. The LVMH Group (which took it over in 1999 under the leadership of Pierre Lurton, who arrived in 2004), just like the Lur-Saluces family before them (now at Château de Fargues), cannot even imagine taking the easy way out! Yquem deserves its status as the “First among the First” wines of Sauternes more than ever. The inclusion of Sauvignon Blanc in the blends, the flexibility in adapting the aging process to the nature of each vintage, and, of course, a unique agronomic expertise make each vintage an even more refined and balanced celebration than in previous decades, satisfying both our senses and our intellect.

A magnificent 17th-century fortified manor surrounded by vineyards, perched atop the hillsides overlooking the Garonne Valley, Château d’Yquem is—uniquely among grand cru estates—has remained in the same family, first the Sauvages and then the Lur-Saluces, for nearly four hundred years. The estate became the jewel of the Sauternes region as early as the 18th century. In addition to its stability, it benefits from a highly varied and nuanced terroir, composed of a multitude of small hills, with vineyards at the top of the plateau and others midway down and at the bottom of the slopes. This diversity allows the estate to adapt to the vagaries of the climate and is what gives Yquem wine its great complexity. Classified as a Premier Cru Supérieur in 1855—the only one in its category—it has belonged to the LVMH Group since 1999, which entrusted its management to Pierre Lurton in 2004. The transition to organic farming began in 2019.

Blended from 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, the 2022 Château d'Yquem is a serious contender for the title of wine of the vintage. It reveals a remarkably delicate, complex, and vibrant bouquet of roses, candied citrus, exotic fruits, and orange marmalade. It is full-bodied, dense, and deep, with perfect balance, enhanced by a heart of fleshy fruit, lively acidity, and a lovely gastronomic bitterness, as well as dry extracts that lead to a long, airy, delicately fragrant, and refined finish. Lorenzo Pasquini and his team perfectly understood the vintage by prioritizing the third-harvest grapes—fully exposed to Botrytis cinerea—in the blend, bringing density and precision as well as an energetic and magnificently balanced interplay between bitterness and sweetness. The residual sugar content reaches 160 grams per liter, making it the second highest since the iconic 1945 vintage. 2034–2074

 

Recognized as the world’s most famous sweet wine, Yquem has been owned since 1999 by the LVMH Group, led by businessman Bernard Arnault. The château is now led by Pierre Lurton, who also heads Château Cheval Blanc in Saint-Émilion. Before him, from 1967 to 2004, Alexandre de Lur Saluces wrote some of the finest chapters in the history of the only wine classified as “Premier Cru Classé Supérieur” in 1855, following in the footsteps of his ancestors. For this wine is perhaps the most consistent in the Bordeaux region over the past hundred years. Even in modest vintages and difficult periods, Yquem has maintained its standing, particularly through its incomparable aging potential. It owes this to a unique terroir, which responds to the development of botrytis like no other, and to the people who have understood and brought out its qualities. While Yquem may not necessarily impress in its youth, it irrevocably pulls ahead of its neighbors after a few years of aging. Tasting an old vintage from the château remains an experience that every lover of sweet wine must have had at least once in their life.

Another perfect Yquem, following the 2021—which is fresher and more refined than the 2022. The sensation of sweetness is very pronounced. Plenty of botrytis, with notes of turmeric, saffron, cream, toasted meringue, pine nuts, spices, and dried mangoes. It’s a powerful, seductive, and opulent wine. Richer and more ornate this year than the 2021, yet full of charm and harmony. Long and spicy, with a hint of petroleum on the finish. Wow. The second most concentrated Yquem after 1945, according to the winemaker. About 160 grams of residual sugar. It’s already very approachable, but will be even better in 5 or 6 years. It will age forever.

The bouquet is powerful and heady, dominated by notes of dried apricots from the Hunza Valley, mirabelle plum clafoutis, lemon tart, and exuberant flowers. On the palate, the wine is luscious and sensual, with a thrilling hint of salinity that contrasts with the sweetness. While salt and sugar are often classified as highly addictive foods, they pale in comparison to this wine, which feels almost like a drug that you become instantly addicted to.

An elegant, deep bouquet with a subtle complexity, where each element plays a fundamental role. The woody notes also come across with finesse, even with 100% new oak—as is customary—and 22 months of aging, taking into account that fermentation also takes place in barrels. Hints of nougat, gentian, white-fleshed fruits, bitter oranges, and a touch of grapefruit highlight the wine’s complexity and freshness. With aeration, the 2022 Yquem continues to gain in complexity. It reveals earthy notes (celery), aromas of roasted pineapple and mirabelle plums, followed by a hint of saffron. Highly concentrated, the wine is creamy, deep, and fresh. It owes this freshness to a salinity that is both invigorating and mouth-watering, as well as to subtle bitter notes that reinforce its length and aging potential. The result is a Yquem of extraordinary balance that perfectly manages the second-highest sugar content (160 g/L) in the estate’s history, after the 1945 vintage. 2027–2092

Combining incredible power, smoothness, and opulence with a refined acidity and a hint of bitterness on the finish, which counterbalance the richness of the honeyed fruit. A single whiff and a single sip are enough to recognize that this is one of Château d’Yquem’s great vintages. That says a lot, given all the fabulous vintages the estate has produced. On the palate, it reveals a wealth of honeyed fruit, Indian spices, and a liveliness found in no other sweet wine. The wine envelops the palate, teeth, and gums, leaving a tangy finish that lingers for 60 seconds or more! It’s a legend in the making! Like all the great vintages of Château d’Yquem, you can enjoy it while it’s young, with its ripe, sweet fruit revealing a unique honeyed purity, or save it for your grandchildren. Best enjoyed between 2027 and 2100.