Chanson Père et Fils - Beaune 1er Cru Grèves 2021

Founded in 1750 by Simon Verry and acquired by the Bollinger Group in the late 1990s, the oldest of the Beaune houses owns 45 hectares of vineyards located in the premier crus of both the Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits. The house’s red wines are primarily made from purchased grapes, vinified by the house to maintain stylistic consistency with the estate. Brilliantly managed from a technical standpoint by Jean-Pierre Confuron (since 2001), this estate has become a model of viticulture, having introduced plowing, eliminated soil amendments, and adopted organic viticulture. Chanson’s wines retain a very high proportion of stems during both white and red winemaking. The guiding principle is balance within tension. The whites are transferred to barrels with as much lees as possible to ensure a reductive character throughout their 14- to 20-month aging in barrels (20% new oak). The reds, whose Pinot grapes are brought to optimal ripeness, retain a vibrant structure of tannins and acidity and are characterized by fleshy fruit with underlying notes of sweet spices and licorice. These wines, in both red and white, deserve a few years of aging.

The fruit isn't particularly exuberant, but it is complex, with aromas of ripe plum and blackberry, enhanced by earthy, menthol, and wood-smoke notes. The texture is firmly tannic without being astringent, and the overall balance is robust and powerful while remaining elegant. The grapes come from a vineyard totaling 2 hectares, spread across three different plots. Each plot is cultivated and vinified separately. The grapes are fermented entirely as whole clusters before being aged in barrels.

Founded in 1750 and owned by Bollinger since 1999, this classic Beaune estate has now fully established its identity and style. It rivals the very best thanks to its precise and pure wines, both white and red. Vincent Avenel has taken the reins of the estate, succeeding Gilles de Courcel, to whom we owe its revitalization. A state-of-the-art winemaking facility and the expert guidance provided through June 2020 by Jean-Pierre Confuron—both in the vineyard and in winemaking—explain the clarity of expression found across the estate’s broad range of wines up through the 2019 vintage, a vintage in which we detect subtle aging notes in certain cuvées, though these are a notch below those of previous vintages. We’ll wait to taste the 2020s in bottle to judge whether this great estate is moving in the right direction with its new team.

Fresh and perfectly ripe on the nose, aromas of rhubarb, white strawberries, and black plums blend elegantly with red rose petals and crushed white peppercorns. This wine is full of lovely liveliness. On the palate, it is dry, with black plums and white strawberries balanced by clove and cardamom. The mouthwatering acidity tames the youthful tannins, resulting in a lovely, lingering finish of cherry, white tea, and rose petals.

Pale purple. A rather lovely, captivating aroma. The most elegant of Chanson’s 2021 Beaune Premiers Crus. A flavorful finish—without being harsh—following flattering, smooth fruit. Vigorous.

This Beaune 1er Cru offers a striking nose of mint, Amarena cherry, and licorice, with the smoky oak taking a back seat. The depth and tannic structure are impressive, though the tannins will certainly need some time to fully mellow. For now, the finish is too velvety (as strange as that may sound), but this is a very young wine with excellent fruit and a lovely, savory character. Drink now, but it will be at its best starting in 2025.