Domaine René Bouvier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux 2016

Bernard Bouvier is one of the very best winemakers in Marsannay, showcasing the rich heritage of this town. A staunch advocate of the “infusion” method—which breaks with the aggressive extraction techniques Burgundy has used in the past—he favors full-bodied wines that are enjoyable both young and aged, harvests the grapes at full ripeness, and intervenes as little as possible. He is guided in his choices by emotion and tactile sensation. Noteworthy are the warm welcome at the estate, its organic approach, and a range of benchmark Gevreys, Marsannays, and Fixins that are both affordable and consistently excellent. This is a winery that never disappoints; the wines are as true to their terroir as possible, thanks to the delicate winemaking techniques that characterize the estate’s production.

The new Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux vintage has a vibrant bouquet filled with raspberry and the aroma of crushed strawberries; a subtle hint of acidity and faint traces of tobacco develop in the glass. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with firm tannins and plenty of freshness, though it lacks a bit of substance and complexity as it moves toward the firm finish. Not bad, but I think it’s still developing.

Notes of red currant, raspberry, and dried flowers: a well-defined profile, naturally rich and elegant, unfolds with depth and vigor, supported by very fine tannins.

This family-owned estate, now in its third generation, boasts a rare heritage of old vines, with an average age of about 50 years. Bernard Bouvier, 52, produced his first vintage in 1986 and is part of the generation of winemakers who have brought a breath of fresh air to Burgundy. After, like many others, succumbing to the allure of modern, heavily extracted wines, he adjusted his approach to produce more refined wines. 2009 marked the transition to organic farming, and 2010 marked the beginning of whole-cluster fermentation, averaging 50% across all wines. A more moderate use of new oak and more precise decisions regarding ripeness have recently resulted in much more accomplished wines, which were awarded their first star last year. The organic certification was lost in 2016 but is currently in the process of being reinstated.