Domaine Peyre Rose - Clos des Cistes 2009

A splendid nose of very ripe fruit and sweet spices; the palate is exceptionally long, with delicate, subtle tannins. The vintage’s generosity comes through in the very long finish, yet it remains very easy to drink.

This vineyard, tucked away at the end of an obscure path, is run as an organic farm by Marlène Soria. Marlène produces three red wines dominated by Syrah: the Clos des Cystes, Syrah Léone (now known as Belle Léone), and—since the 2003 vintage—Marlène No. 3, grown on a new terroir. The Cistes grapes come from the highest part of the estate, situated on very hard, stony soils. This cuvée has more acidity than Belle Léone, which is planted on more crumbly rocks that allow water to drain easily—it is often the most sensual cuvée. Marlène No. 3 is neither a third nor a second wine. As the estate’s third plantation, it is certainly the best-planted of the plots, with a higher proportion of Grenache, and it is the one that benefits most from aging. As for the white wine, Oro is made from Rolle, Roussanne, and Viognier, complemented by several other Languedoc grape varieties. If one had to give Peyre Rose a synonym, it would surely be “One Thousand and One Nights,” so enchanting are its finishes.

In 2009, Clos des Cistes strikes just the right balance despite a finish that is still a bit tight. The candied note, typical of this cuvée, is not overly pronounced in this vintage.

Almost 40 years ago, after a career in real estate, Marlène Soria acquired a plot of land in the hills above Saint-Pargoire. In the heart of the garrigue, she built her vineyard from scratch, first planting table grapes (Servant, Chasselas) and then wine grapes (Ugni Blanc, Syrah). Her first harvest was in 1988, but it was in 1993 that her success story began with the release of her first Blanc de Servant. Such were the foundations of one of the most inspiring success stories in French winemaking. Today, the vineyards span 30 hectares, 10 of which are planted in terraces. Her son joined her at the estate in 2012; the estate is completely energy self-sufficient thanks to wells and solar panels, enabling viticulture that is 100% respectful of the surrounding natural environment. The style is distinctive: aging is very long—often more than ten years—yet also very subtle. The Oro white, sadly all too rare, is the flagship of the Soria style. Less forceful, the reds display a fiery intensity that refines with time.